Wallface, Daks Questions

I have done some extensive internet research but do have questions still and will greatly appreciate anyones answers/opinions -

Primary question: is there a window of decent weather and no flys before summer? Everyone notes late sept/oct is best but nothing in april or may historically?

Secondary questions/requests (if you have time):
Have you or someone you know climbed the 'diagonal' route? If so I will enjoy your opinion.

Is there a solid water source at the cliffs base/primary camp area? This bit of info I though I would have found out easily.

Any comments at all on Wallface are welcome as I am just starting to discover (unfortunately from a distance) this amazing place. Thank you.

norwegianwanderer wrote:I have done some extensive internet research but do have questions still and will greatly appreciate anyones answers/opinions - Primary question: is there a window of decent weather and no flys before summer? Everyone notes late sept/oct is best but nothing in april or may historically? Secondary questions/requests (if you have time): Have you or someone you know climbed the 'diagonal' route? If so I will enjoy your opinion. Is there a solid water source at the cliffs base/primary camp area? This bit of info I though I would have found out easily. Any comments at all on Wallface are welcome as I am just starting to discover (unfortunately from a distance) this amazing place. Thank you.

If you come up from Upper Works, there is a nice lean to with water close by, which is maybe 2 miles from Indian Pass.

I have also only ever climbed the Diagonal in the later summer (July 21), and flies weren't too bad at all. The bushwack from summit rock to the cliff was horrendous though.

The Diagonal is a fun route, but I'd be wary of early spring ascents...I've sat at Summit Rock with a friend in late fall watching human size icicles fall onto the diagonal ramp from above...needless to say we didn't choose to climb it that day

Thank you very much. I appreciate your experience.

Also if you don't have it...I suggest the Jim Lawyer/ Jeremy Haas guidebook Adirondack Rock. Chock full of detail, great book!

Ben Brotelho wrote:The bushwack from summit rock to the cliff was horrendous though.

Ben Brotelho wrote:The Diagonal is a fun route, but I'd be wary of early spring ascents...I've sat at Summit Rock with a friend in late fall watching human size icicles fall onto the diagonal ramp from above...needless to say we didn't choose to climb it that day

I climbed it in May and the route was a bit wet. Ended up being able to fill up water with drips coming from the top.

TR here: nobolts.blogspot.com/2012/0…

Nice post! I'm also planning to venture out to Wallface for the first time next season to climb Diagonal. Will probably camp and enjoy the surroundings since I don't think I can convince the wife to do it in a single day...The Lawyer book lists a lot of camping areas but if anyone else has particular favorites or additional insights feel free to share. Thanks!

Another vote for May or later. Very short window before black flies start to dominate in the high peaks, and they were still particularly bad when I was there early July. If temps are no longer getting below freezing at night the black flies are likely starting to hatch.

Lots of water in the area (maybe not at the actual base). When on the approach, just fillup (filter is safest, lots of giardia in the high peaks below 3500 feet) when passing through the bouldery area before ascending to the base.

There's camping within minutes after you leave the main trail heading toward the climb, with a stream nearby.

Route is a lot of fun. I hopefully left out enough info to not spoil the adventure on the MP page, but if you can think of anything specific please ask and I'll maybe even add it to the description.

Nice report Bill. Like those pics of Pitch 8. The pins are questionable, but I'd trust them.

If you want a unique experience, camp up on the wall one pitch above the ramp. All you need are sleeping pads and bags because you should already have gear to build anchors. Great view to wake up to.

Don't be fooled - the leanto used to be approximately 2 miles from the Adirondack Loj approach is no longer there. Irene lifted it up and sent it down stream on the opposite side of the brook. I would definitely gather up to date info on that area before you enter. Have fun!

How long does the average party take to ascend `the diagnol`? Average time for any route on wallface?

Also wallface in early spring/warm winter (anytime there's ice above) is it possible to climb there and be safe? That is if exposed hurry (simulclimb or whatever other technique) and get to points of cover. Are there many points of cover for the most popular routes(most likely for me to be on popular routes at first)?

I plan of wallface in may/june but that's far away and id like to go earlier if possible, falling ice is an accecptabole hazard (within reason). Thank you all!

Wallface in winter conditions can be an experience. A long time ago friends of mine were climbing/camping in there and had quite the epic. One of the party members dropped a refrigerator sized rock on their doubles and nearly lost a toe. Had to be lowered from 300' or so. Dumped blood out of the boots at the hospital. Fortunately they were practicing fixing ropes for an Alaskan adventure, so they had all the gear to self rescue.

If it were up to me I'd go in full winter conditions, and stay clear of the mud seasons. Freeze thaw cycles are not your friend on big, loose climbs. Climb fast.

Wallface in winter conditions is really appealing (I want to free climb so `light` winter) and I want to mimmic a climbing experience in the big ranges. I'm looking for an adventure with consequences. Its the hazards that bring that spark that I love, that awareness and seriousness and wallface seems perfect for me in the east!

I would be stoked to get on Wallface this spring if folks are looking for partners... i live in CT but love driving in NY.

Noted captain mo

Hey Mo,

Feel free to keep me in mind if you need a partner. Would love to get up there some time. I've gone to the Dacks a few times with my wife to camp and climb but mostly in the Keene area. Ready for something bigger.

I don't climb close to your level but have been climbing trad in the Gunks for a couple years, was leading 8s at the end of last season (plan to break into some 9s at the Gunks this season) and can comfortably follow 9 and easy 10. Have tons of trad gear and a station wagon. Live in NYC.

Logan and Mo are there any routes or type of climbing you have in mind? I'm curious if anything specific `tickles your fancy`?

I'm at work and don't have the book handy (productive day). Obviously Diagonal but I'm sure there is some other good stuff too, right? Climbing primarily in the Gunks I haven't done that much crack and am stronger on face and roofs, but enjoy all styles. What style/climbs are on your list?

I'm limited on wallface (anywhere) because I'm terrible at aid climbing and I havent taken the time to practice the flow. The only climb I for sure will do/attempt is `the diagonal`. I plan on being in the area for at least 5 straight climbing days so other routes are possible (and I have time to decide) on Wallface or other areas. But climbing different routes on that awesome wall is very appealing. I enjoy becoming intimate with one area (mountain, etc).

I like a lot of climbing... most importantly though is I'm not a fan of intense hand jamming or OW. I love a great finger crack or exposed aretes and faces or roofs. I haven't really aid climbed a route but I think with 15 years trad climbing I've pulled on piece of gear here and there so it doesn't seem like a big deal (unless it requires hooking or something like that). To tickle my fancy we'd probably have to be scouting out an old aid line to free or some undone line, that would get me giddy.

I'm always looking for a partner for that matter. . . I know folks that climb but few that are into actually planning out trips and doing bigger walls. But it is ski season...