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Wallface, Daks Questions
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By norwegianwanderer
Nov 29, 2012
Photo.

I have done some extensive internet research but do have questions still and will greatly appreciate anyones answers/opinions -

Primary question: is there a window of decent weather and no flys before summer? Everyone notes late sept/oct is best but nothing in april or may historically?

Secondary questions/requests (if you have time):
Have you or someone you know climbed the 'diagonal' route? If so I will enjoy your opinion.

Is there a solid water source at the cliffs base/primary camp area? This bit of info I though I would have found out easily.

Any comments at all on Wallface are welcome as I am just starting to discover (unfortunately from a distance) this amazing place. Thank you.


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By divnamite
From New York, NY
Nov 29, 2012

norwegianwanderer wrote:
I have done some extensive internet research but do have questions still and will greatly appreciate anyones answers/opinions - Primary question: is there a window of decent weather and no flys before summer? Everyone notes late sept/oct is best but nothing in april or may historically? Secondary questions/requests (if you have time): Have you or someone you know climbed the 'diagonal' route? If so I will enjoy your opinion. Is there a solid water source at the cliffs base/primary camp area? This bit of info I though I would have found out easily. Any comments at all on Wallface are welcome as I am just starting to discover (unfortunately from a distance) this amazing place. Thank you.

Been there during summer after the flys, it was very nice.
It's probably better do it in a day, but if you dead set on camping, there are a lot of streams around there. You need to filter/boil the water.


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Nov 29, 2012
Epic free solo with a pack on

If you come up from Upper Works, there is a nice lean to with water close by, which is maybe 2 miles from Indian Pass.

I have also only ever climbed the Diagonal in the later summer (July 21), and flies weren't too bad at all. The bushwack from summit rock to the cliff was horrendous though.

The Diagonal is a fun route, but I'd be wary of early spring ascents...I've sat at Summit Rock with a friend in late fall watching human size icicles fall onto the diagonal ramp from above...needless to say we didn't choose to climb it that day


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By norwegianwanderer
Nov 29, 2012
Photo.

Thank you very much. I appreciate your experience.


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Nov 29, 2012
Epic free solo with a pack on

Also if you don't have it...I suggest the Jim Lawyer/ Jeremy Haas guidebook Adirondack Rock. Chock full of detail, great book!


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By Auto-X Fil
From NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
Nov 29, 2012

Ben Brotelho wrote:
The bushwack from summit rock to the cliff was horrendous though.


Sounds like you missed the cairns - it's not bad if you're on-track!

Ben Brotelho wrote:
The Diagonal is a fun route, but I'd be wary of early spring ascents...I've sat at Summit Rock with a friend in late fall watching human size icicles fall onto the diagonal ramp from above...needless to say we didn't choose to climb it that day


April could be scary. It will almost certainly be wet. May would be better, but watch the weather and check on conditions. If the next-to-last pitch is slimy the crux could require aid.


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By Bill Sacks
From Sacramento, CA
Nov 29, 2012
Chapel Pond

I climbed it in May and the route was a bit wet. Ended up being able to fill up water with drips coming from the top.

TR here: nobolts.blogspot.com/2012/05/5122012-wallface.html?m=0


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By Logan Schiff
From NY, NY
Nov 29, 2012

Nice post! I'm also planning to venture out to Wallface for the first time next season to climb Diagonal. Will probably camp and enjoy the surroundings since I don't think I can convince the wife to do it in a single day...The Lawyer book lists a lot of camping areas but if anyone else has particular favorites or additional insights feel free to share. Thanks!


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By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Nov 29, 2012
Rumney

Another vote for May or later. Very short window before black flies start to dominate in the high peaks, and they were still particularly bad when I was there early July. If temps are no longer getting below freezing at night the black flies are likely starting to hatch.

Lots of water in the area (maybe not at the actual base). When on the approach, just fillup (filter is safest, lots of giardia in the high peaks below 3500 feet) when passing through the bouldery area before ascending to the base.

There's camping within minutes after you leave the main trail heading toward the climb, with a stream nearby.

Route is a lot of fun. I hopefully left out enough info to not spoil the adventure on the MP page, but if you can think of anything specific please ask and I'll maybe even add it to the description.

Nice report Bill. Like those pics of Pitch 8. The pins are questionable, but I'd trust them.


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By Bill Sacks
From Sacramento, CA
Nov 29, 2012
Chapel Pond

If you want a unique experience, camp up on the wall one pitch above the ramp. All you need are sleeping pads and bags because you should already have gear to build anchors. Great view to wake up to.


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By Jeffrey LeCours
From New Hampshire
Nov 29, 2012

Don't be fooled - the leanto used to be approximately 2 miles from the Adirondack Loj approach is no longer there. Irene lifted it up and sent it down stream on the opposite side of the brook. I would definitely gather up to date info on that area before you enter. Have fun!


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 1, 2013
Day Lily.

How long does the average party take to ascend `the diagnol`? Average time for any route on wallface?

Also wallface in early spring/warm winter (anytime there's ice above) is it possible to climb there and be safe? That is if exposed hurry (simulclimb or whatever other technique) and get to points of cover. Are there many points of cover for the most popular routes(most likely for me to be on popular routes at first)?

I plan of wallface in may/june but that's far away and id like to go earlier if possible, falling ice is an accecptabole hazard (within reason). Thank you all!


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By robrobrobrob
Feb 1, 2013

Wallface in winter conditions can be an experience. A long time ago friends of mine were climbing/camping in there and had quite the epic. One of the party members dropped a refrigerator sized rock on their doubles and nearly lost a toe. Had to be lowered from 300' or so. Dumped blood out of the boots at the hospital. Fortunately they were practicing fixing ropes for an Alaskan adventure, so they had all the gear to self rescue.

If it were up to me I'd go in full winter conditions, and stay clear of the mud seasons. Freeze thaw cycles are not your friend on big, loose climbs. Climb fast.


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 1, 2013
Day Lily.

Wallface in winter conditions is really appealing (I want to free climb so `light` winter) and I want to mimmic a climbing experience in the big ranges. I'm looking for an adventure with consequences. Its the hazards that bring that spark that I love, that awareness and seriousness and wallface seems perfect for me in the east!


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Feb 1, 2013
Stoked...

I would be stoked to get on Wallface this spring if folks are looking for partners... i live in CT but love driving in NY.


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 1, 2013
Day Lily.

Noted captain mo


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By Logan Schiff
From NY, NY
Feb 1, 2013

Hey Mo,

Feel free to keep me in mind if you need a partner. Would love to get up there some time. I've gone to the Dacks a few times with my wife to camp and climb but mostly in the Keene area. Ready for something bigger.

I don't climb close to your level but have been climbing trad in the Gunks for a couple years, was leading 8s at the end of last season (plan to break into some 9s at the Gunks this season) and can comfortably follow 9 and easy 10. Have tons of trad gear and a station wagon. Live in NYC.


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 1, 2013
Day Lily.

Logan and Mo are there any routes or type of climbing you have in mind? I'm curious if anything specific `tickles your fancy`?


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By Logan Schiff
From NY, NY
Feb 1, 2013

I'm at work and don't have the book handy (productive day). Obviously Diagonal but I'm sure there is some other good stuff too, right? Climbing primarily in the Gunks I haven't done that much crack and am stronger on face and roofs, but enjoy all styles. What style/climbs are on your list?


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 1, 2013
Day Lily.

I'm limited on wallface (anywhere) because I'm terrible at aid climbing and I havent taken the time to practice the flow. The only climb I for sure will do/attempt is `the diagonal`. I plan on being in the area for at least 5 straight climbing days so other routes are possible (and I have time to decide) on Wallface or other areas. But climbing different routes on that awesome wall is very appealing. I enjoy becoming intimate with one area (mountain, etc).


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Feb 1, 2013
Stoked...

I like a lot of climbing... most importantly though is I'm not a fan of intense hand jamming or OW. I love a great finger crack or exposed aretes and faces or roofs. I haven't really aid climbed a route but I think with 15 years trad climbing I've pulled on piece of gear here and there so it doesn't seem like a big deal (unless it requires hooking or something like that). To tickle my fancy we'd probably have to be scouting out an old aid line to free or some undone line, that would get me giddy.

I'm always looking for a partner for that matter. . . I know folks that climb but few that are into actually planning out trips and doing bigger walls. But it is ski season...


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 1, 2013
Day Lily.

Great segway Mo: I have that popular guidebook and it has a fine amount of routes. What i was going to ask eventually was are there virgin lines? Any areas that have potential for free climbing but haven't been explored? Or any aid lines not freed? With my planned 5 days the diagonal and some route cleaning/creating would fill my cup probably. Just the chance that a virgin line MIGHT go gets my adrenaline flowing!


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By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Feb 1, 2013
Rumney

In addition to what's in the guide, there's also some new routes (or route changes) on the guide publisher's website:

adirondackrock.com/newroutes.htm#Wallface

My vote would be to wait until after the thaw. As previously noted, backcountry climbing inherently has increased risk(s) associated with it. Rescues can take DAYS depending on a lot of things. Adding more factors into that already tenuous equation is asking for trouble IMHO. Could just get into jaywalking if the thrill of death is what I seek.

[/public service announcement]

If you're going to put up routes, just be certain that no one is climbing below you. Dropping rocks on people that far back is cause for permanent revocation of climbing priviledges! :p


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 14, 2013
Day Lily.

Average time: when is wallface usually clear of ice and (as safe as possible, think ice and constant wet rock) when is the earliest it can be free climbed?

Also is the case route reasonable to solo (this is relative so id like your opinion)? If one were to get nervous is it reasonable to (make shift) aid at least some parts? Or rope solo lead?

Thank you.


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By Eric G.
Feb 14, 2013

I'm not sure why so many are recommending that it's better to climb wallface in a day. It's a special place, stay a while, check out some other routes. I've camped there twice, and one time was for 5 days. We had a blast, put up a new route, drank a ton of whiskey, climbed a bunch of lines, and laughed till I cried.

Or I suppose you could climb diagonal as quickly as possible and rush to get back home to watch TV or something.


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 14, 2013
Day Lily.

I'll most likely be there 1 week. If I go it'd be nice to have partners but just in case I dont have one a solo trip is fine with me. Meditational for sure with or without a partner. I won't solo anything above 5.4ish and the commitment comes after I've gotten solid beta on the route.

My two original questions postedx earlier today still stand. Thank you.


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