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"Wall style" routes in the Black
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Oct 18, 2012
Unknown at Golden Cliffs
A friend and I are training for El Cap in a month or so, and are thinking of training by doing a route in the Black. I can free 5.9, but I would rather work on my aid systems and maybe spend a night on the wall, instead of just doing the casual route . The black isn't exactly famous for completely solid rock, so I was wondering if there were any good routes with solid continuous crack systems(C2 max) for aiding. A bivy ledge would be an extra plus. Keith Earley
From Boulder, Colorado
Joined Jan 7, 2011
31 points
Oct 18, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stile...
Keith wrote:
A friend and I are training for El Cap..and are thinking of training by doing a route in the Black

Ummm?

Keith wrote:
so I was wondering if there were any good routes with solid continuous crack systems(C2 max) for aiding. A bivy ledge would be an extra plus.

Zion.
Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Joined May 10, 2007
280 points
Oct 18, 2012
I would use Yosemite for training to climb in the Black!

Go to Zion for a real wall experience (just don't bugger-up a busy trade route) or just clean-aid a multipitch free climbing route for practicing your systems and movement.
Bob Dobalina
Joined Jun 2, 2009
178 points
Oct 18, 2012
rockerwaves
I would use Yosemite for training to climb in the Black!
Plus One!
Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Joined Mar 16, 2007
4,276 points
Oct 18, 2012
Unknown at Golden Cliffs
Thanks guys. We have been practicing on country club a bunch to work our systems. just wondering if there were any exceptions to the rule in the black, which it seems there aren't. Zion is the back up in case the conditions in Yosemite are crappy. Keith Earley
From Boulder, Colorado
Joined Jan 7, 2011
31 points
Oct 18, 2012
Aid the Naked Edge. Preferably on a Saturday. Goodhue
From Boulder, CO
Joined Aug 21, 2008
28 points
Oct 18, 2012
On a more helpful note:

mountainproject.com/v/firebird...

I haven't done this route, but the description seems like it would make a good one-day aid route. Something bigger than Country Club but not quite a two-day wall.
Goodhue
From Boulder, CO
Joined Aug 21, 2008
28 points
Oct 19, 2012
Goodhue wrote:
Aid the Naked Edge. Preferably on a Saturday.


You're a tool. I bet you look like a hippy.
kuusk
From Boulder, CO
Joined Oct 19, 2012
0 points


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