This is a fantastic crag with a short, steep, somewhat slippery approach. A host of excellent climbs reside here, most being in the 5.11 - 5.12 range. The guidebook doesn't lie in saying that this is some of the best rock in the canyon. Reefer Madness, Recovery, Wet Dream... climb any one of 'em and you'll agree! The climbs can be long here, but a single 60m rope will work for most; knot the ends if in doubt.
Get to US 6 (the wall is nearer the Golden end of the canyon). The crag is immediately west of Tunnel 2 (5.1 miles west of Tunnel 1). There is a sizeable pullout on the south side of the highway. There's plenty of room to park, but because of all the scree above, the closer you park to the base of the hill, the more likely you are to go home with a crater in your hood. Follow one of two paths up to the base of the wall. There are a few markers you can use to get oriented: On the right side of the wall, there is a large eye bolt at the base of Refer Madness. In the central region, there is a belay bolt at the base of Recovery & Foxy. Of the climbs on the left end, Hey Good Lookin' is the line that goes out the leftmost big roof crack.
If you like thin face climbing that utilizes balance and sequence, then this route is for you. It begins with the same first bolt as Reefer Madness and continues left through some tricky 5.11 climbing. Rest at the ledge and continue through the final 3 bolt crux. The beta is incredibly fun to work out and the climb has good clipping stances. The guidebook says 5.12d/13a, but Nate Weitzel and I felt that it wasn't quite that difficult. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Best rock in the canyon? I halfway agree. That shield of rock where TDD and Reefer reside is infact beautiful and superb, but the rest is dirty and sometimes loose. Pitch one of Centerfold has many friable flakes and is a tad crumbly in places. Kitten, Vixen and Recovery are all a tad dirty (mostly cause it gets a lot of water runoff), though solid, as are the other routes in this sector.
Best rock I've been on is Reefer (btw, mid 10 if you're tall, 11 if you're short), but best continuous rock goes to Eiger or River Wall.
I just recently had my draws stolen off Ten Digit Dialing, like in the past 4 or 5 days. Does anyone know anything that could help me get them back? I really need them. I won't be pissed off. I just want them back. Thanks.
Another rattlesnake encounter.... Pissed one off last night on the upper trail down from the Wall of the '90s right where it crosses the recent rock slide. The snake was under the bushes/large rock, but then slid down the dirt towards us... exciting!
Does anyone happen to have info on the bolted line just left of Black and Tan? It currently has draws hanging on it all the way up. We climbed on the face up to the first set of anchors before the wild looking roof moves and noticed a red tag on the first bolt (past the first anchors). Is this route/extension new? Is it open to climb on? Thanks!
I just checked this place out today for the first time. Left cos it looked like rain. But before I did, I was hiking a bit to the left of Alone Time With My Banana and saw a few bolted routes. Are these part of a different area or are they just new?
I know that this is a long shot, but has anyone found a Grigri that was left on the right side of the wall (under Ten Digit and such) in the past few days? I left it there last Sunday morning. Will provide a 6 pack of choice for return. Cheers.
Hey I was at wall of the '90s the other day, and I found a length of cordelette two black diamond straight gates and a pair of lockers. I found these items at the base of Hey Good Lookin' route. Figured I would see who it belongs to and try to get em back to their owner. Let me know. email@example.com