This is popular crag with mostly short, consistently overhanging sport routes. Most of the routes are in the 5.11 to 5.12 range. The belay/starting ledge is quite exposed, so make sure to stay tied in out there to avoid a tragedy. Enjoy!
Approach is the same as for High Wire crag. From High Wire continue to the left or south side of the rock and follow a small trail over the ridge. Go down maybe 50 feet until you see this extremely overhung formation. The belay ledge below the climbs is a forth class ledge which has some fixed ropes and belay bolts to clip in to. A fall from the ledge will send you 100 feet down some jagged rocks to the creek so be careful and check the fixed lines before trusting them implicitly.
This is one of the test pieces of the Wall of Justice. It climbs through the biggest section of the roof on amazing holds. Unfortunately, getting to these holds requires pulling a tough sequence off underclings to a sloper hold. Once you gain the roof jugs, enjoy twelve feet of huge holds until you try the lip of the roof. Here is the routes crux, and I will let you experience this fun problem for yourself. Just remember, it is only one more hard move to the anchors, go for it!!! ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Check out Officer Friendly 10d. A real pumpy piece of work. Nice dynamic moves through very fun jugs. At the end of the trail, you come to a little dirt patch to belay from. You'll see it. Facing the wall from the patch, it's at about 10 o'clock. There's two bolted lines that meet at a groove in the overhang and then four or five moves to a good place to clean from. It's the route on the right. 6 or 7 bolts, I don't know-just bring 10 or so because that's what I had and we made it fine. Really fun route though. I want to know who threw down the line on the fixed draws! You're sick whoever you are! Good luck
I realize that with the safety ropes on the slab, all the bolts, and the two chain clips on Great Escape, the Wall of Justice is not a back-to-nature experience. Nevertheless, I wish that the person working the project would remove the chains from the bolts.They make the place considerably uglier than before. I realize that whoever equipped the route spent his or her own money and is putting in a great deal of effort _in part as a service to the community. Still, with no disrespect to the good intentions of the equippers, my vote would be for a bit more inconvenience cleaning draws and less metallic crag. How do other climbers feel?
Actually, there are more reasons besides aesthetics to think twice about fixed chains in Clear Creek. Jefferson County Open Space owns many of the crags and they are currently doing various things to evaluate climbing impact, etc. Anyway, it would be a shame for them to see something at Wall of the Justice that might get their overly tight panties in a bunch.
The last time I was at Wall of Justice I noticed that many of the chains were shiny stainless steel rigs. This is wholly unacceptable - if we are going to put up fixed chains, we need to at least camo them so they are not obvious and unsightly to rangers, birdwatchers, and the like.
If you are interested in details on Jeffco Open Space and Clear Creek Climbing, contact Tod Anderson, who is the Access Fund coordinator for Jeffco.
Concerning the chains, I agree they should go. The route in question is probably 5.14c or harder, with an estimated V12 or V13 boulder problem crux. I really have no idea how hard because I couldn't pull onto the holds. Considering the amount of traffic it's going to get, the chains are unnecessary. If whoever bolted this is reading, consider removing the chains; they're an eyesore.
My thought is that with all the fixed rope, chalked holds etc, a couple of fixed chains is not that big of a deal. ( I am referring to the chains on the Great Escape) I generally do not consider most of the roadside crags in Clear Creek destination spots for people who are not climbers( ie birdwatchers), wall of justice in particular since it is rather hidden from view. I agree, the chains should have been painted, and I didn't paint the one that I fixed (sorry), but I was tired of shredding my rope cleaning gear from this route. I mostly consider this crag an outdoor gym, and when someone fixed the first chain, I decided to add another. If the gear is that problematic to you, take it down. But is doesn't seem that much different than the fixed anchors at the top, just that the chains hang down. Great Escape does see a lot of traffic, and it is easier to clean the route with the two fixed chains at the top, but I am rather lazy.
Regarding the route you are describing with the fixed chains, I recollect that about 4 years ago a guy who climbed regularly at CATS, spent quite a bit of time at Morrison, and was somewhere from the E. Coast put that route up. I don't remember his name, but am fairly sure he returned to wherever he had come from some time ago.
Not a bad way to make an unbelievable wall look horrible. It's no wonder why sport climbers catch so much flack, we muck up every wall we get our hands on. Whoever added the chain clips, please reconsider you decision and remove them. If you are unable to draw the bolts, maybe this climb is not for you.
Another thing to think about is that the crag might be hard to access and see for now but Jefferson County along with Clear Creek County have big plans to develop the canyon for access including a hiking/biking path from Golden to Clear Creek . So making a outdoor crag look like a indoor gym might not be such a good idea for future climbing in the canyon.
Who cares about the chains it dosen't seem to bother anyone except you guys. I got a great ideal: if someone replaces the last two bolts on the Great Escape I'll paint the chains brown. I think safty should be more of an isue than the chains, that for the most part only the climbers that go to that wall can see. If anyone has seen the last two bolts on the Great Escape they know what I am talking about. The second to last bolt, the hanger looks like it is about to pull over the bolt head, and it is bent from people cleaning the route. The last bolt looks like it is about to pull out of the rock. I think we should put chains on the last three bolts. Well I don't know about that, but the comunity should get together and replace those bolts or at least teach me hoy so I can do it. Also if your pissed off about the chains you need to reevaluate your views on Clear Creek climbing ethics. This winter most of the moderate climbs on High Wire have had their anchors replaced with bright shiny chains. At least the Wall of Justice is somewhat hidden. Well, the chains do serve a purpose and as long as they are up people will continue to bitch. Clear Creek ethics definatly need some reevaluation. It will never be Eldo but I think we can do better. However, as for the Great Escape I think the chains serve a purpose. The chains on the project route are kind of lame.
Personally I don't think chains are ugly, and I don't understand why others think such. I get stoked when I see bolts or gear on rock, because it gets me excited to climb, and reminds me that climbing sick routes is possible. I know this may be a "radical" view, but climbing in general is an alternative sport. To complain about the hard work someone has put in on some obscure cliff out of the view of everyone but climbers and kayakers (who, I'm sure, could care less), is to strain a gnat. Wake up to the reality of things: we climb on solidified pieces of dirt and rock. It's not supposed to be the mona lisa! We drill into it with metal, leave bolts, and chalk the hell out of areas, which, in my opinion, really isn't that ugly. I don't mind seeing chalk on rock, and I don't understand why people get so upset; "oh, dear God, they've put white marks on the dirt covered rock. Could they possibly be climbing there? It's so much uglier now that it's chalk mixed with dust, dirt, and bird shit!!" Get a frickin' life.
There are also lots of more moderate routes on the way in. I'm far too lame to do any of the routes on the actual Wall o' Justice, but I had a good time on some of the less steep routes. There is also a very steep, very easy 9+ or so right before safety ropes.
Regarding the previously chained route: It is named "Child's play". It was bolted by Luke Childers, who moved away before he was able to send it. He intended to remove the chains but wasn't able to. Thanks for cleaning it up.
Sorry for having to post something that doesn't pertain to most people, but I'm hoping that the right person reads this... Unfortunately, I absent-mindedly left my GriGri and locking biner at the Wall of Justice on Sunday 9/30. They were probably left on, or near, the flat spot on the right side of the wall. I can definitely identify the gear if necessary. Thanks!
Caution! The crux hold on Hanging Judge is going to break! This is a recent development. I climbed the route yesterday, 10/24, and almost pulled out a very large block connected to the crux hold. I wasn't able to mark it with an 'X.' Thought I'd post here so that someone else can if they are in the area soon. This is sad news. It ruins an awesome sequence. I'd be interested to hear from anyone who can climb the route without the hold, regarding the (new) grade. It was broken when I got there, I swear; I'm a small guy.