Wall of Horns 5.10b/c R
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| Type: | TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Shannon Stegg - 1981 |
| Submitted By: | saxfiend on Jun 12, 2010 |
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Description An unusual route in that it doesn't follow a plumb line, Wall of Horns is a thought-provoking climb through juggy but overhanging conglomerate. But first, you've got to get through that long and spicy traverse. Starting on the left side of a wide crack, climb about 10-15' to a point where there's enough positive hands and feet to begin moving left across the face. Continue the delicate traverse another 20' or so left and up to gain the namesake horns that will lead you to the anchors at the top.
Location In the Whipping Post area; starts on the wall across from Dreamscape left of a prominent crack.
Protection Marginal. This would be an R/X-rated lead and is best done as a toprope. Wearing a helmet is recommended, as a fall during the traverse will result in a long pendulum. Bolted anchors at the top.
| Comments on Wall of Horns |
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By Rod Thomas From: Chattanooga,TN Jul 12, 2010
| Actually a worthwhile lead. Yes gear doesn't jump out at you and yes there is a traverse. The grade is adequate for the route if in fact you climb the grade and have knowledge to protect the route. It is interesting the number of route descriptions given by individuals who have not led that particular route. If you haven't touched the route on the sharp end then don't write a review telling people that it should only be done on toprope. Just my opinion. |
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