Go up the ridge line over slabby terrain dotted here and there with trees and bushes and lined by grooves and corners. Stay within 20 feet or so of the ridge line until it eventually peters out, then continue in the same direction till you run out of slab and find yourself near Sugarloaf.
The route could probably be done in about 6 pitches, but we soloed it. It makes a very comfortable and pleasant solo.
Go past the clean slab area toward the south. There is a large groove there and then a slabby ridge. Start onto the ridge from either side. We did it from the south after crossing over it at the base first.
Walk off going down the ridge line to north east. This is close to or just technical at first, so care is advised. Change out of climbing shoes when close to a saddle. Continue in the same direction below the steeper rock until reaching the ridge above Bivy Cave. Go down the ridge, the cleaner way of doing it is on the north side of it.
There is no protection much of the time, but enough trees and cracks for anchors from time to time. The cracks are generally filled with dirt and vegetation and some of the trees have been through a recent fire.
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