The crux is at the fourth bolt, a series of balancy smears, more typical of granite face climbing than other routes on Beehive. The Voo guide describes them as "tricky footwork."
There are three high step moves to get to the crux, all 5.8/5.9.
This route climbs the arete at the right end of the cliff to the anchors for Rip Chords and Gypsie Fire.
6 draws plus draws for the anchors.
|By Andrew Locke|
From: Louisville, CO
Aug 4, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
My partner and I tried this route this morning with him leading. He went left at the crux, turning this route into more a 5.9. I went into the crux using the arete, which makes it much trickier. Find the good feet and make a balancy half mantle type move to stand up and you should be through it.
On another note, don't TR this route. A fall at the crux leads to a really nasty swing (as evidenced by yours truly).
|By Dave Bn|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 8, 2013
I felt a directional on the second to last bolt made this route very top-ropeable.
Agreed that going left eases up the crux substantially. Puts it more in the 5.8 range. Move past the first bolt is pretty fun.
|By Gary Schmidt|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 8, 2013
Fun climb! Start is intimidating, but it goes.
As per the "swing". Yes, this is an example of one of the downfalls (IMHO) of this crag in that it could maybe stand a couple of more anchors. For example, there are 3 routes (maybe 4?) that share the same anchor here. It turned out no one else wanted to follow or climb this route after I topped out so made for a pretty challenging rappel to get my draws back.