Walking on a Dream 5.11
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Good page? (2 likes)   |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | Joshua Gale, Jack Kearney, Matt Schook, Lukas Jordan, Ryan Leigh, Jason Taylor |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | 1j1 on Feb 15, 2011 |
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Joshua Gale
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Description This is not your typical Red Rocks' sport route. The climbing is more akin to Joshua Tree in style and finale. Begin by standing on a boulder with your left hand on a big sidepull, and right hand in the seam. Twenty ft. of bouldery moves through vertical terrain, lead to 40 ft. of sustained, technical horizontal movement across a super thin arcing rail. Top out, there is no anchor on the face. Belay off of a scrub oak 50 ft. to the east. To descend, walk off from the climb 80 or so yards to the east where you will be deposited at the east end of the 'Hidden Corridor,' proper.
Location Start at the bolted seam 15 ft. right of 'Little Red.'
Protection 7 Quickdraws.
There is not a fixed anchor on the face of this route, nor will we install one. In order to belay a second; establish a top rope, or rappel to clean your draws, utilize a hearty scrub oak 50 ft. to the east of the top out with slings around it. Either use the lead rope or a 2nd line to extend the belay and alleviate rope drag.
Ryan Leigh
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Lukas Jordan with rock guts on his face.
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Lukas Jordan
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Ryan Leigh
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Jack Kearney
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Matt Schook
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Jack Kearney
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Joshua Gale
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Jack Kearney
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| Comments on Walking on a Dream |
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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 15, 2011
| looks pretty cool, but i have to ask- why no anchor if you went to the trouble of bolting it? most folks wont bother if its not easy to clean on rappel. |
By 1j1
Feb 15, 2011
| For us, not installing an anchor on the face was a no brainer. We did not want to cheat ourselves out of the full experience. We felt topping out on the formation was not only cool, but rewarding as well, because it kept the climbing sustained until that final moment when we were standing with success on the top. We didn't feel that drilling an anchor close to the topping out point was necessary either, when a perfectly good belay could be set up using the tree. If the tree becomes abused at some point, other options may become necessary. It may take slightly more effort and a larger skill set to rig up the belay but that's the way it is for now. Cleaning gear on rappel (should your "2nd," not succeed) will be involved, no matter the anchor position, due to the traversing nature of the line. It would be unfortunate to miss out on this gem because of a little extra effort involved in the belay, as the climbing is in our opinion, outrageously fun! |
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 15, 2011
| fair enough- just thought i'd ask. i'll probably check it out soon- looks cool. |
By 1j1
Feb 16, 2011
| John, I appreciate your feedback and hope that i did not come across as being a dick in my response. I think your question was valid and it gave me a good opportunity to better present our case as to why we set the belay up in this fashion. |
By dnoB ekiM
Feb 20, 2011
| Looks really good. Can't wait to try it!
7-24-11: Tried it this AM. Super bouldery and neat! Too hard in these temps. Will try it again in the fall. A unique climb. |
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