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Hidden Corridor
Routes Sorted
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Dirty Secret S 
Don't Scare the Bat! S 
Gonzo T 
Hidden Edge S 
Little Red T 
Walking on a Dream S 
Unsorted Routes:

Walking on a Dream 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Joshua Gale, Jack Kearney, Matt Schook, Lukas Jordan, Ryan Leigh, Jason Taylor
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,337
Submitted By: 1j1 on Feb 15, 2011

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Joshua Gale

Description 

This is not your typical Red Rocks' sport route. The climbing is more akin to Joshua Tree in style and finale (slabbery with a top out finish). Begin by standing on a boulder with your left hand on a big sidepull, and right hand in the seam. Twenty ft. of bouldery moves through vertical terrain, lead to 40 ft. of sustained, technical horizontal movement across a super thin arcing rail. Top out, there is no anchor on the face. A bolted anchor exists 3 feet beyond the top out. To descend, walk off from the climb 50 or so yards to the east where you will be deposited at the east end of the 'Hidden Corridor,' proper.

Location 

Start at the bolted seam 15 ft. right of 'Little Red.'

Protection 

7 Quickdraws.
Bolted anchor, 3 feet beyond the top out.


Photos of Walking on a Dream Slideshow Add Photo
Jack Kearney
Jack Kearney
Ryan Leigh
Ryan Leigh
Jack Kearney
Jack Kearney
Lukas Jordan.
Lukas Jordan.
Lukas Jordan
Lukas Jordan
Matt Schook
Matt Schook
Ryan Leigh
Ryan Leigh
Jack Kearney
Jack Kearney

Comments on Walking on a Dream Add Comment
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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 15, 2011

looks pretty cool, but i have to ask- why no anchor if you went to the trouble of bolting it? most folks wont bother if its not easy to clean on rappel.
By 1j1
Feb 15, 2011

For us, not installing an anchor on the face was a no brainer. We did not want to cheat ourselves out of the full experience. We felt topping out on the formation was not only cool, but rewarding as well, because it kept the climbing sustained until that final moment when we were standing with success on the top. We didn't feel that drilling an anchor close to the topping out point was necessary either, when a perfectly good belay could be set up using the tree. If the tree becomes abused at some point, other options may become necessary. It may take slightly more effort and a larger skill set to rig up the belay but that's the way it is for now. Cleaning gear on rappel (should your "2nd," not succeed) will be involved, no matter the anchor position, due to the traversing nature of the line. It would be unfortunate to miss out on this gem because of a little extra effort involved in the belay.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 15, 2011

fair enough- just thought i'd ask. i'll probably check it out soon- looks cool.
By 1j1
Feb 16, 2011

John, I appreciate your feedback and hope that i did not come across as being a dick in my response. I think your question was valid and it gave me a good opportunity to better present our case as to why we set the belay up in this fashion.
By dnoB ekiM
Feb 20, 2011

Looks really good. Can't wait to try it!

7-24-11: Tried it this AM. Super bouldery and neat! Too hard in these temps. Will try it again in the fall. A unique climb.
By Darren in Vegas
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 9, 2014

First of all let me say that this is a very unique and interesting line. The rock is bulletproof, the movement is difficult and interesting, and the bolts decently placed. However, after climbing it I don't understand the lack of an anchor.
It seemed that many bolts took several tries to install, why the sudden lack of interest in drilling?
I am not trying to stir up controversy, but merely interested in hearing more about your thought process during the FA.
Thanks for the nice route.
By 1j1
Feb 13, 2014

Darren, we're happy to know people are climbing this route. It seems too current to have already fallen into obscurity ha ha!

Your questions are valid, here are some answers.

The ugliness of the 1:1 bolt/patched hole ratio, is thanks to some masked route choppers. We really liked the initial bolt placements as they were located at the most reasonable clipping stances and distances. We spent a good deal of time hanging around on the climb, sussing out the best possible points for protection. Because the choppers patched the holes, we couldn't reuse them and had to move the new bolts a bit.

Concerning the lack of a bolted anchor on the face;
I previously discussed that issue with Wilder upthread. We anchor off the scrub oak and extend the belay to the edge of the cliff, so that the belayer can watch the 2nd and bring her/him up w/o rope drag. We knew that the type of climber who would seek out a route of this style (someone with your background/experience for instance), would easily have the skill set to rig an anchor in that fashion. I realize this may be a limiting factor in how many people get on "Walking," due to less convenience. I cannot however, imagine too many "straight-up," sport climbers queuing up for this slab when there is so much steepness nearby. This is not a slight on sport climbers (I climb plenty of sport), I'm just aware that slab seems to be somewhat out of fashion these days.
Also, we all liked the experience of topping out (had been climbing out at Joshua Tree a bunch) and felt the climb's style tended toward that (ala Sidewinder). Overall the route would be just as difficult to clean with an anchor on the face (due to the traverse). A plumb line rappel to clean the draws is pretty easy and straightforward.

If a bunch of people get on this route and an anchor on the face seems to be an overwhelmingly good idea, we may reconsider one. Firstly though, we'll need to convince more people to climb it. We have had a conversation with another (independent of us) climber who liked having the top-out. Differing ideas is how it will always be.

What are your specific thoughts about adding an anchor and where? Thank you for your constructive input.
By Darren in Vegas
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 1, 2014

I would suggest placing an anchor after the top out. I agree that topping out adds something to the climbing. I also agree that there are many who can deal with it as is.
Two points to consider though:
1. I just think that scrub oaks are not the best choice for anchoring. Why damage plant life if you don't have to?
2. It is a good climb and IMHO it would improve the experience of the route to not have to crawl under a bush to tie a cordalette around it.

Sucks about the bolt chopping, thanks for going back and fixing it.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 1, 2014

fwiw, this route happens to fall in an exclusion zone in Red Rock, in which bolting is prohibited due to its proximity to historical artifacts (quarry equipment).
By 1j1
Nov 14, 2014

Darren, we agree with the points you have made and it appears that someone else does too. A buddy of mine recently went out to this cliff and discovered that there is now a bolted anchor 3ft. beyond the top out. We believe this new anchor should stay in place ( aren't concerned with the retro addition, so others shouldn't be either ) and hopefully contribute to more people experiencing the route.

John, thank you for the insightful information regarding the proximity of this route. We had never heard of this exclusion zone before your posting. We were positive that the prohibition was limited to the wilderness area in the canyons.