Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
2nd Alcove
Select Route:
Ears to You T 
I Be Jammin' T 
Just Face It T 
O.U.L.D. T 
Quoia the Destroya T 
Walking Jack T 

Walking Jack 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mark Bauer, et al
Page Views: 1,010
Submitted By: Ryan Curry on Feb 24, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The route. It's the main crack splitting right up...

Description 

Offering a brief section of fists and big-fists (off-width for wee folk), Walking Jack may leave you feeling like you've been kicked in the leg. For those accustomed to wide cracks there is a second, thinner crux awaiting them high on the route. Rarely led, despite excellent protection, this climb is often top-roped after leading Whisker Biscuit.


Location 

Walking Jack faces east and is located about 40 ft. right of Whisker Biscuit. Look for a 3.5" crack leading towards a large wedged block about 30' up.


Protection 

Doubles of 1/2" through 3" including one 3.5" piece. Stoppers are also useful.



Comments on Walking Jack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rick D
From: Reno, NV
Apr 3, 2009

Good climb. The second crux kept trying to spit me out. Watch out right after the crux hands section. There is a block thats wedged in the crack. I used it to pull on, but it sounds pretty hollow. I personally avoided placing in gear in that six feet.

By Milton Mugambe
Jan 18, 2010

Sand-bagged for the onsight lead. It's more like 5.10d or 5.11a.

By Ryan Curry
Mar 8, 2010

Agreed, Milt. I changed the grade accordingly.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Jan 24, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

You could even bring a 5" or 6" piece to protect the brief offwidth, but the 3.5" friend and 4" camalot I brought were sufficient. I found the crux to be the overhanging thin hands over a bulge just above the o-dub. There are some cool face-type shenanigans up higher. This is yet another quality Woodfords route.

By Laine
From: Reno, NV
Feb 4, 2013

No matter how many times I climb this, that wedged block unnerves me.

By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Feb 22, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fun climb, probably closer to .10c. Can use a 5 maybe 6 on it, 2 4's are very useful. Flared hands crux is tough. Quality route, the block is disconcerting...not sure it feels like it's gonna go, but definitely don't protect around it. Climbing is easy there anyway.