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Walkin' a Thin Line 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Eric Brand, Jeff Dopp mid 1980's
Page Views: 2,539
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Sep 14, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Joe showing us good footwork on the traverse from ...

Description 

This is located on the northwest side of main rock at Mickey's Beach, sitting one route right of the main corner route (5.10b) that always seems to have a top rope on it.

Start on a slab, head up over a vertical corner and finish on some barely featured slab climbing.

This has a serious rating because it's about 20 vertical feet from the last bolt to the top anchor, and there aren't too many holds in the top section. This makes some people chicken out and head to the right to Pelicans (.12a), which has simpler slab climbing on the top, though either way is still scary.


Protection 

4 (or 5 if you cheat and cut right instead of going to the top) bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.



Photos of Walkin' a Thin Line Slideshow Add Photo
Really fun crimpy climb. Photo by mark sommer
Really fun crimpy climb. Photo by mark sommer
The slick and treacherous first moves. Looks silly so close to the ground. These can be bypassed by climbing straight up further left.
The slick and treacherous first moves. Looks silly...
After the crux the climbing remains thin although not as difficult as below.  A leader must keep his/her cool from here up to complete the remaining 10 feet to the anchors!
After the crux the climbing remains thin although ...
In the middle of the thin crimper moves on the upper slab. Without using the bolt on the adjoining route, this is too scary for me.
In the middle of the thin crimper moves on the upp...
Taken from the west, showing the climber high up on the climb.
Taken from the west, showing the climber high up o...
Justin about half way up.
Justin about half way up.
I don't think I've ever climbed with someone who enjoyed himself so much.  The climbs crux is just up and right of Joe.
I don't think I've ever climbed with someone who e...
Joe at the base getting ready to move left on the thin and slick traverse.
Joe at the base getting ready to move left on the ...
Naoko staying low on the bottom of the climb.  She needs to get to the handhold down and to her left about 8 inches.
Naoko staying low on the bottom of the climb. She...
This is slick, delicate, and balancy here!  Joe, normally you chalk up one hand at a time!
This is slick, delicate, and balancy here! Joe, n...
Tabya Sultan working "Walkin' a Thin Line"
Tabya Sultan working "Walkin' a Thin Line"
Comments on Walkin' a Thin Line Add Comment
Show which comments
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Mar 31, 2003

A very fun route! It would be a bold lead getting to the anchors as your feet would be about 6-8' above the last bolt on pretty hard, thin, moves. Moves do get easier the higher you go though. At the ground, I assume you go up just right of the Corner Route. About 5.9. There is a bolt further down and right but this might be for Pelicans only. Very good rock great route!

By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
May 12, 2003

I came back to lead this and was pleasantly surprised that I didn't freak out! Having toproped it a month ago, I knew what to expect. Luckily the harder moves are down closer to the last bolt. The upper moves to get to the anchors are not as difficult and you just have to keep cool. This is one great route and a very satifying lead!

By L. Hamilton
Mar 30, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

A nice moderate lead.

By Jeff Dopp
From: Goodlettsville, TN
May 4, 2006

Eric Brand and I did the first accent in the mid 80s. It's a sweet route when it's not too slimey.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Aug 1, 2006

I'd say there are two different cruxes: 1) the initial traverse on some greasy footholds, and 2) the first move off the last bolt. Then there's the mental crux of continuing up a slightly featured slab to the anchors WAY above the last bolt! I'd agree with Paul that this is one of the most satisfying leads. I'm hesitant whether it's a 5.10B or 10C. I guess in the tricky moves/mental aspect sense, it is a 10C.