walkie talkies for communicating with an out of sight climber
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So Im interested in carrying a set of walkie talkies with me up routes whenever i go out of sight or on super windy days. I just see time slipping away when im sitting on belay thinking what the heck is taking him so long, in a case like this a little communication would go a long way. There have been countless times when climbing with new leaders where they finish a pitch and start to build the anchors and set up belay and get all ready then tell you you can take them off belay!!! I want to learn little tricks in saving time and climbing more efficiently. Maybe if you use walkie talkies what kind what brand.... any helpful knowledge would be great Thanks for all your help. |
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William Rhyne wrote:I want to learn little tricks in saving time and climbing more efficiently.If you do this, then you don't need the walkie-talkies. In regards to the specific case that you mentioned about the leader not going off belay soon enough, perhaps it is just a case of educating your partner a little. I remember doing the same thing when I first started climbing in areas where I had to build natural anchors. I would build the whole damn thing, get comfy, take off my shoes, etc - all the while my partner is wondering what the hell is taking me so long. I had a parnter tell me once when I left the belay - "remember to let me know as soon as I can take you off belay." Ever since then I have always made it a priority to look for a bomber piece and a small ledge if possible, so that I can go off belay before building the entire anchor. Anyways, Motorolla walkies always seemed to work for us when I used to run a summer camp. They are heavy though, and if you get a good system down w/ your partner then you don't need them. Climbing w/ a new partner is just that, NEW. It will never go as smoothly as it would w/ someone you are used to, but there is nothing wrong w/ coming up w/ a system and some plans before you leave the ground. |
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You'll eventually (or quickly) decide that they are more hassle than you want to deal with and are, in reality, unnecessary anyway. |
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The search function on this website works well. Here, these should provide some information for you: |
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People using walkie talkie have always annoyed me, there are several ways to communicate commands to your second(s) that do not involve a lot of noise. But that is my personal opinion, do with it what you will. ;) |
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as has been said before... batteries and electronics fail and when they do it's usually at the most inopportune time so you MUST have a backup system. |
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Under normal circumstances, climbers on multipitch routes only ever need one command, and that's "Off Belay." And even that one is optional. |
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William Rhyne wrote:So Im interested in carrying a set of walkie talkies with me up routes whenever i go out of sight or on super windy days. I just see time slipping away when im sitting on belay thinking what the heck is taking him so long, in a case like this a little communication would go a long way. There have been countless times when climbing with new leaders where they finish a pitch and start to build the anchors and set up belay and get all ready then tell you you can take them off belay!!! I want to learn little tricks in saving time and climbing more efficiently. Maybe if you use walkie talkies what kind what brand.... any helpful knowledge would be great Thanks for all your help.Have a backup system figured out because radios aren't always reliable. Then after a bit, you'll find the backup system is all you use because radios become more of a hassle than they are worth. Unlike the movies, radios are line of site, and rock is very good at blocking them. |
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While all of the above is pretty good advice I do find radios pretty helpful and not a burden to carry at all. Check out the small Motorolas, pretty useful. |
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hey will! hope all is going well for yah! |
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I love my two-way radios. Keep in mind that communication issues are the number one cause of accidents in climbing. I think they are pointless for singe pitch routes unless you're near a river or a road, but they are priceless in the alpine and on multi-pitch anything else. If you have ever been on an alpine or multi-pitch climb when wind and weather rolls in, you will know that it's nearly impossible to hear one another. Further, rope pulls and tugs don't go over so well when your route meanders and you start linking pitches, you're dehydrated, tired, and at altitude. |
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I'd use a radio more if I could find one that was super reliable, lightweight and compact. The few that i have used in the past always seem to turn themselves off or other nonsense. They are great when they work, but when they dont (which seemed to be more often than not), just a pain. |
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I used radios for the first time on Whitney's East Buttress a few years ago. I have climbed for decades and thought I would give it a try because of a partner who had never climbed before and I have been on the same route several times before and know that wind and terrain can hamper communication. They worked slick and I am going to use them again next month when I take my 11 year old son on Snake Dike. We know how to climb without them and have our signals down but he wants the comfort of being able to talk with me and I am fine with that. I wont make radios a habit but on certain climbs they sure come in handy. |
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tldr; |
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Hamlet73 wrote:I generally tell my second that when the rope comes tight, they will be on belay after 15 seconds. The strategy at the anchor is the same, I first build the anchor, I attach myself to it (daisy chain, knot, whatever) and I get all set up to belaying them. Then I pull the rope up quickly for 10-15 feet which should tell them that I am indirect. Whether or not they get that I finish puling up the rope and immediately put them on belay. Then I get the rope tight and wait.I do this also, except I use 20 seconds (30 seconds with partners who are not as familiar with this method). Works great. |
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To all those who are bad-mouthing walkies: |
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Morgan Patterson wrote: That being said . . . at areas like the Gunks where there are hundreds of people the walkie talkies can cut down on a lot of yelling if something "non-standard" occurs (ie, out of your rehearsed rope tugs).I find walkies especially annoying at busy crags - I've witnessed them in use while climbers are still within earshot from each other, so it actually adds to the noise pollution instead of reducing. Oh, and it does not help couples' selective hearing problems, and actually exacerbates them. "I said 'Take'!!!!" If you are not comfortable having your partner out of sight/hearing range and are not familiar with each other's habits, I'd say shorten your pitches and/or extend your belay stance to the edge if the route is going through roofs etc. |
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Everyone has their own system. Radios seem like a ridiculous thing to carry... |
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Love radios. I use them every time on long trad. I can't believe more people don't use them. Put a leash on it, so if it comes unclipped you won't lose it. |
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Smoke signals... Kidding will I could not resist. Rope signals are great for on belay when you are out of communication. For instance, I have you on belay from above and I need to let you know it's ok to climb. I pull the rope til its tight and I can feel you, then I give two tugs with about a 2 second interval between tugs so it feels consistent. Then in return you give me three tugs back. Simple and effective. |