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Walker on the Wild Side
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Senior Centre
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A Pension to Climb S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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A Slice of Life S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Depends S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mid-Life Crisis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Out to Pasture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Shuffle-Board Demon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Walker on the Wild Side S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Rolf Ryback, I. Wigington |
| Page Views: | 565 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Spindloe on Jun 10, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: Private Road
Details
This crag is on a fire road on which local homeowners pay the city a lease or use fee of some sort. The homeowners are of the opinion that this grants them exclusive use of the road. While that may or may or not be true, they act on that belief and have cars towed and confront users.
The crag itself is on public land, so there's no problem with the climbing itself. Work is underway to clarify the road situation. In the mean time, best ways to approach the crag are (more details in the "Getting There" section:
1. park on Indian River Drive before the fire roads begin and bike in and out (and haul your bikes up the trail a bit).
2. Drive in and drop everyone off except the driver, then the driver can drive back out and bike back in.
The crag itself is on public land, so there's no problem with the climbing itself. Work is underway to clarify the road situation. In the mean time, best ways to approach the crag are (more details in the "Getting There" section:
1. park on Indian River Drive before the fire roads begin and bike in and out (and haul your bikes up the trail a bit).
2. Drive in and drop everyone off except the driver, then the driver can drive back out and bike back in.
Description
This climb starts with some thin moves right off the deck. A spotter is highly recommended due to the sharp block at the base. It then moves far right from the bolt line up to an overlap and then makes a crux traverse left under the overlap and pulls around a bulge. The rest of the climb is at a lower grade but the holds are rounded (good texture though) and there's at least one clip where you'll notice an unusually long distance to the bolt below you.
This is a high-quality, full-value route that shouldn't be missed.
This is a high-quality, full-value route that shouldn't be missed.
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