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 ADVANCED
Redgarden - S Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Breed Apart T 
Anthill Direct T 
Archer McLanahan T 
Back in Black S 
Backstroke T,S 
Backtalk T,S,TR 
Black Top S 
Blackwalk T 
Book of Numbers T,S 
Bulge Indirect T 
Bulge, The T 
C'est La Fin T 
C'est La Morte T 
C'est La Vie T 
Chromium Shore T 
Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony T 
Continue-us T 
Crack Variation T 
Desdichado T,S 
Dessert T 
East Overhang TR 
East Side T 
Edge of Night, The T 
Exodus T 
Flakes, The T 
Genesis T,S 
Genuine Risk Takers T 
High Noon T,S 
Horizontal Beginnings T 
Je T'Aime T,S 
La Vie d' Pansey TR 
Le Boomerang T,S 
Left Side of Roark, The T 
Mental Cruelty TR 
Night T 
Noggin T 
Off the List (aka Genuine Risk ?) T 
Original Anthill T 
PA's Variation T 
Pansee Sauvage T,S 
Pilgrim S 
Pseudo Sidetrack T 
Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 
Redguard T 
Restless Nights T 
Semi-Wild T 
Semi-Wild Slab T 
Shades of Gray T 
Sticky Feet T 
To Night T 
Trinity Cracks T 
Vaporizer, The S 
Variation to Lower Meadows T 
Walk the Talk T 
Whistle Stop, The T 
Whittle Wall, The T 
Whittle Whisk T 

Walk the Talk 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FFA: Duncan Ferguson, Bill Putnam, Jim Erickson, 1971
Fixed Hardware: 3 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 472
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 5, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Josh Janes follows up to the big traverse on 'Walk...
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  • Description 

    From the anchors atop Night or P1 of Blackwalk, head up and left into a roof system. Follow this with underclings and jams past a hangerless bolt and then a good bolt, then turn the roof at its left margin. Continue up on easier rock, or stop at an intermediate anchor (top of High Noon I believe) to belay.

    This has some decent climbing but some low-quality rock as well.


    Protection 

    Standard rack.



    Photos of Walk the Talk Slideshow Add Photo
    Walking the talk from a belay on Blackwalk passing the belay station on top of Back in Black.
    Walking the talk from a belay on Blackwalk passing...
    Comments on Walk the Talk Add Comment
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    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 5, 2004
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    5.9+ seems about right. The route is probably S, owing to a 9+ move getting off of the belay and continuing 5.9 for a short bit to reach the first pro. A factor-2 fall is certainly possible from a 5.9 move. The first pro was a medium stopper at the top of the initial section, pinching and side-pulling on a 2-3 meter long right-facing flake. A passive pink tricam would have been better, but Josh and I disagree on how bad the stopper was. I am pretty darn sure it would have been fine to fall on & I looked at it carefully when I placed it. The first bolt in Rossiter's topo is a hangerless 1/4" split-shaft. It hangs out far enough to swage a stopper over it. The next bolt is good and pro above that is "good enough" with a few cams from quite small to 1.5" plus a #2 Camalot. The best way to finish the route was unclear to me. You can diagonal out left on the crack and overhang system all the way to the bolt-anchors above High Noon and Pilgrim, then pick your way up runout moderate climbing to the big ledge above, but Rossiter seems to indicate crossing the roof just above the second bolt into 5.6 territory to reach the ledge. That option seemed less interesting/fun. The moves from the base to the anchor described are odd and fun. 2-stars in my book right there.

    By Boo T. Call
    Feb 28, 2005

    Prussiks for the second would not be inappropriate if there's any question of a fall.

    By Steve Levin
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 4, 2007

    The hangerless quarter inch stud has been replaced...hanger included.

    By dlight
    Jun 16, 2012

    This makes a great climb when combined with the first two pitches of Dessert.