Small area which is home to 7 routes ranging from UIAA 9 to 11. Two classic routes are here: Action Direct and Slimline. If you're like most mortals and you can't climb at the level these climbs are, please stay off them to keep from polishing the beginning and making it even harder.
Drive to Neuhaus. From Neuhaus, continue East toward Königstein. When you reach the village of Krottensee, turn and head toward Maximiliansgrotte. 1.2 km after Maximiliansgrotte, you'll see a crossing of forest roads. Park 80m after that. Walk another 20m along the road and hang a left onto the path through the forest. After 60m you'll see a path on the left heading up to the rock.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Waldkopf:
Action Directe 5.14d Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet
Featured Route For Waldkopf
Action Directe 5.14d International : Europe : ... : Waldkopf
Of course, I haven't actually done this route, but I wanted to add it since it's one of the most famous rock climbs in the world. Now you can see exactly how to find it, should you come visit the Frankenjura. This route was the world's first 9a (5.14d/UIAA 11). It was put up by Wolfgang Güllich who trained specifically for this climb by inventing the campus board and doing one finger one arm pull-ups. Dave Graham, the fourth person to climb Action Direct, was the first who didn't train like this...[more] Browse More Classics in International