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Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
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Wald-Calder Route 
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Wald-Calder Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a PG13

Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Grant Calder and John Wald 1976
Page Views: 179
Submitted By: Drake Pregnall on Sep 1, 2012
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Pitch 1:

Boulder up through the 7 foot tall phone booth (right side seems easier) to jugs and a short right rising flake (first gear). From here, traverse right for 70 feet along a good horizontal with some dirty feet. Build a belay below the right end of a low roof (good blocks to sit on). 5.9- PG

Pitch 2:

Climb straight up from the belay ledge using a vertical crack. Move right to another vertical crack and then back left to a pretty hollow flake (no gear). Climb the flake to its top below the final bulging headwall. Pull through the bulge and scramble up the slab to build a belay near where The El tops out. 5.9 PG


The route starts about 20 feet right of Roaches on the Wall where the Roaches Terrace gets grassy, narrow, and exposed. The phone booth feature is pretty obvious. Descent via the Great Chimney rappels.


Each pitch has a short portion of poorly protected climbing. Other than those small bits, the climb takes great gear from micro size to 3 inches.

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