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Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
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Apprehension T 
Arcane Saw T 
Bitter Route, The T,TR 
Breakfast Of Champions T,TR 
Cabana Boy T 
Candy-O T 
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana T,TR 
Captain Crunch S 
Clyncke Punched a Hippy T 
Day Dream T,TR 
Dispensary, The T,S 
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation T 
Flakey Floont T,TR 
Flower Quarter T,TR 
Greaser, The T 
Hasting's Cutoff T 
Lemon Line T 
Little Fish that Die Abruptly TR 
Loose Lucy T 
Lucid Dream T 
Micky Mouse Die-Rect T,TR 
Mr. Natural T 
Over 'ed Power Line T 
Phee-nix T 
Pickpocket T,TR 
Quantum Mechanics T 
Real Men Eat Eggs T 
Remention T 
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Roving for Love T 
Schizophrenia T 
Senora (??) T,TR 
Senorita T,TR 
Shadow T 
Slimy Spoon, The T 
Strangle Hold T,S 
Sub Slab T 
Suparete T,S 
Super Natural T 
Super Slab Direct Start T 
Tiny Line T 
Toys for Tots T,S 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille S 
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The T 
Velvet Hammer T 
Vertical Smile T 
Waking Sleep T 
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun T 
Zombies on the Lookout T 

Waking Sleep 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?? T. Bubb, C. Parks, 11/16/02 ??
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 200
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 16, 2002

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  • Description 

    The route is not described in the Eldorado Guidebook and may or may not be a FFA. Please correct the site if this route has been previously climbed.

    Go up the Redgarden Wall trail from the Streamside trail until a metal ladder takes you up just beside the large boulder against the wall. Backtrack perhaps 30 feet, passing a 12 foot juniper which tree grows up nearly against the wall. About 35' up you will see another conifer just right of an inset through a bulge/roof and just left and above two small right-facing dihedrals. Just further right is an inset below a blocky, L-shaped roof, which is "two squares deep" on the Right and "one square deep" on the left. Perhaps 2 meters further right is a roof with a "chunky" vertical crack above it (one good jam), and after another meter still further right is a pin driven in over the roof with a ratty grey sling dangling from it. (Daydream) This sling may not last much longer, so perhaps just look for an over-driven pin.

    Climb up from the ground from directly below the roof with the chunky vertical crack (one jam) above it. Place some gear below the roof and then start through the roof on odd but good holds. As you pass the roof spy a single good hand jam and decide weather you want a solid Jam, or solid Protection. You choose to put in either your hand or a gold camalot (red or orange HB quad-cam). I chose to plave the cam. If you pro this move, use a sling so as not to bury the edge below it in rope and a biner- this will become the crux hold. Move through the small roof/overhang and continue up the wall straight above to the ledge and belay.

    To get back the the base, you can walk to the climber's left (N/NE) along the ledge until it merges with the trail below Rewritten, then down to near the metal ladder again.


    Protection 

    A set of nuts including RPs and a set of cams from 0.5-3". The crux move can be protected with a 2.5" or 3" cam overhead.



    Comments on Waking Sleep Add Comment
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    By CHRIS.T
    From: Longmont, Co.
    Feb 19, 2011

    This route is the '5.10' variation listed in the route description for 'Shadow'.