Waiting for Comeau 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | A. Comeau A.Dow D. stone 1979 |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on Jul 5, 2007 |
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Jakob climbing and me belaying on waiting for come...
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Description An awesome route that sees little traffic but deserves more.... It's like combining the cruxes of Three Birches and Bombardment in to one pitch.... You start by heading up a corner, then traversing to the right under a roof (not as hard and more fun than the Three Birches roof section), then you go up a crack and at a pair of old pins, make a tough move left across a slab to the left-leaning crack that can be loosely compared to Bombardment (5.8).... As the crack ends, you climb straight up to a two bolt anchor....
Location The far left end of the slabs just to the right of Short Order.... Look for the corner leading to a roof heading right....
Protection Normal rack.... Finger-sized cams low down and bigger up top.... A couple pins at the halfway point.... Use long runners on everything....
One 60m rope stretch rappel will put you back on the ground....
me about halfway up...
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just finishing the roof section...
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Jakob belaying me up the start.... A good view of ...
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| Comments on Waiting for Comeau |
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By john strand
From: southern colo
Jun 12, 2008
| Try the direct start 5.10 no gear but really not to bad. It can also be top roped after the initial arch.
john |
By Gabe13
Jun 18, 2009
| I tried Cash Flow yesterday John, and was saved from disaster by a heap of leaves and duff (and my cat-like reflexes). The 5.10 slab moves are 15 or so feet off the ground. For the less retarded I recommend placing the first nut under the roof, then downclimbing and firing the direct start. |
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 30, 2009
| If you are a real retard like me- try it with snow at the base in early spring. This way you can rocket off into the trees when you fall off. |
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