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 ADVANCED
7. The Slabs
Routes Sorted
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Beginners Direct T 
Beginners Easy Variation T 
Beginners Route T 
Booklet, The T 
Cormier-Magness Route, The T 
Dark Horse T 
Fingertip Trip T 
Girdle Traverse of Whitehorse Ledge T 
Interloper  T 
Man O War T 
Ninth Wave, The T 
Sea of Holes T 
Slabs Direct T 
Sliding Board T 
Slipshod T 
South Buttress of Wankers Wall T 
Standard Route T 
Stop if you Dare T 
Tidal Wave T,S 
Waiting for Comeau T 
Wave Bye Bye T 
Wave Length T 
Wedge T 
White Wilderness T 

Waiting for Comeau 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: A. Comeau A.Dow D. stone 1979
Page Views: 1,035
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jul 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Jakob climbing and me belaying on waiting for come...

Description 

An awesome route that sees little traffic but deserves more.... It's like combining the cruxes of Three Birches and Bombardment in to one pitch.... You start by heading up a corner, then traversing to the right under a roof (not as hard and more fun than the Three Birches roof section), then you go up a crack and at a pair of old pins, make a tough move left across a slab to the left-leaning crack that can be loosely compared to Bombardment (5.8).... As the crack ends, you climb straight up to a two bolt anchor....

Location 

The far left end of the slabs just to the right of Short Order.... Look for the corner leading to a roof heading right....

Protection 

Normal rack.... Finger-sized cams low down and bigger up top.... A couple pins at the halfway point.... Use long runners on everything....

One 60m rope stretch rappel will put you back on the ground....


Photos of Waiting for Comeau Slideshow Add Photo
pokey getting alpinish on the start
pokey getting alpinish on the start
me about halfway up...
me about halfway up...
Jakob belaying me up the start.... A good view of ...
Jakob belaying me up the start.... A good view of ...
just finishing the roof section...
just finishing the roof section...
such an awesome route...bring lots of long draws
such an awesome route...bring lots of long draws

Comments on Waiting for Comeau Add Comment
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By john strand
From: southern colo
Jun 12, 2008

Try the direct start 5.10 no gear but really not to bad. It can also be top roped after the initial arch.

john
By Gabe13
From: Eaton Center, New Hampshire
Jun 18, 2009

I tried Cash Flow yesterday John, and was saved from disaster by a heap of leaves and duff (and my cat-like reflexes). The 5.10 slab moves are 15 or so feet off the ground. For the less retarded I recommend placing the first nut under the roof, then downclimbing and firing the direct start.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 30, 2009

If you are a real retard like me- try it with snow at the base in early spring. This way you can rocket off into the trees when you fall off.
By kevin neville
From: Somerville, MA
Jun 9, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The first pitch is excellent. Lots of fun and varied moves, good gear, consistent difficulty throughout the pitch.

The Handren guidebook describes P2 as 5.7: up the slab, past a bolt, to the tree ledge. It's very runout! There's a spot for a 0.1 X4 about 15 feet above the belay; then the ancient rusty 1/4 inch wouldn't-want-to-whip-on-it; then another 70 feet or so with nothing. Route beta: from the belay, step right and then back up left. The direct left start would go, but it's harder and puts you right over the bolts/belayer if you slip. Then 2/3 of the way up, at the wide shallow dish, it's easier to move several feet right before finishing up. There was no fixed anchor at the trees, so we did a belayed traverse/bushwhack about 60 feet climber's left to the big pine atop Short Order.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jun 9, 2014

"there is no fixed anchor at the trees" what???try a bit of webbing