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Waipapa

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Galaxy Walls 
Main Cliff 

Waipapa  


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Location: -38.2922, 175.68401 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Cameron Fraser, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on Apr 2, 2009
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View from a climb on Main Cliff.

Description 

Quietly tucked away in the corner of Wharepapa South, unnoticed by the brigades of pocket-pulling sport climbers, is a clump of fully-welded ignimbrite with dihedrals and splitter cracks aplenty. Up on the hills above the dam the Waipapa walls offers a good assortment of traditional and sport climbs. The 15 minute hike in seems to ward off potential crowding; I never saw a single party there besides our own. Due to the lush forest and lack of use some of the more tucked away walls (e.g. Height of Summer Wall) can get grown over quickly, but the main wall is fairly clean.

Although the ignimbrite is more solid than the unwelded variety, the climbers here tend to only use cams, and they place them deep. There are a few climbs that require some wire placements, I didnít care to test the soundness of these placements, you can do as you choose.

IMHO, the best climbing in Wharepapa. Good sized routes, quality rock, lush forest setting, and you have the whole place to yourself. Be sure to check out Millennium Madness and The Arches for some moderate, yet spectacular climbing.

Getting There 

See www.freeclimb.co.nz or Rock Deluxe North for further information.

Climbing Season



Weather station 12.2 miles from here

21 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',4],['5.10',9],['5.11',4],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Waipapa:
Millennium Madness   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 90'   Main Cliff : Millenium Wall
The Arches   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 100'   Main Cliff : The Arch Area
Browse More Classics in Waipapa

Featured Route For Waipapa
Sean on the final traverse of The Arches

The Arches 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Oceania : New Zealand : ... : The Arch Area
A classic for the area, must do. Starts with a strenuous layback on slippery feet, climbing a fading fingercrack in a huge right-facing corner. The climbing is solid 5.10 at the start, but you will quickly get some divots for your feet and things ease up quite a bit. This leads to even easier, yet enjoyable climbing on a traverse under the enormous roof. There may be a move or two to pull onto the belay ledge, depending on what holds you find....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Waipapa Slideshow Add Photo
The Arches, Main cliff
The Arches, Main cliff
The lake above Waipapa
BETA PHOTO: The lake above Waipapa

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