Waipapa Rock Climbing

Quietly tucked away in the corner of Wharepapa South, unnoticed by the brigades of pocket-pulling sport climbers, is a clump of fully-welded ignimbrite with dihedrals and splitter cracks aplenty. Up on the hills above the dam the Waipapa walls offers a good assortment of traditional and sport climbs. The 15 minute hike in seems to ward off potential crowding; I never saw a single party there besides our own. Due to the lush forest and lack of use some of the more tucked away walls (e.g. Height of Summer Wall) can get grown over quickly, but the main wall is fairly clean.

Although the ignimbrite is more solid than the unwelded variety, the climbers here tend to only use cams, and they place them deep. There are a few climbs that require some wire placements, I didn’t care to test the soundness of these placements, you can do as you choose.

IMHO, the best climbing in Wharepapa. Good sized routes, quality rock, lush forest setting, and you have the whole place to yourself. Be sure to check out Millennium Madness and The Arches for some moderate, yet spectacular climbing.