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Waimea dry and ice free on a lucky winter day. Ph...
A stunning line up a prominent black streak, Waimea is an absolute classic. Sustained, creative moves on all types of holds get harder and pumpier as you near the top, and culminate with a technical crux on water carved grooves. Take your pick between balancy moves on tiny crimps and side pulls, or longer reaches between better holds.
The home of giant ice pillars in the winter, Waimea is sometimes wet into mid summer. Luckily, the route has such a fan base that any chap in the parking lot can tell you whether or not the crux is dry.
Walk across talus past the central Waimea wall and around the corner. Waimea the route is right of the stuning black arete of Livin' Astro. The start of Waimea is recognizable by big incut wafer flakes.
Jordi (Editor for Escalar (Spain's climbing mag)) ...
Nuria Anguita-Bates making one of the starting mov...
Nuria Anguita-Bates making a fun move out of the r...
Nuria Anguita-Bates making the crux move
Sam Todzia on Waimea's rest jug.
Lee Gagnon on waimea on a nice fall day... he sent...
Lee Gagnon the man the myth the obsessed climber.....
a beautiful day on a beautiful route on a beautifu...
BETA PHOTO: A hold broke just above the second bolt, now its a...
BETA PHOTO: A close up of the new move
Overview shot of Waimea.
Joe Kinder on Waimea during the Nor'easter 2010
waimea in a thunderstorm...beautiful!
Mike nearing the second bolt
From: New York, NY
Jul 19, 2009
My first outdoor lead! Waimea has a special place in my heart.
|By Mike Thompson|
From: Manchester NH
Aug 12, 2009
i heard rumor that this route's holds are getting bigger from erosion.... same rumor suggested that it might be up for a downgrade maybe even to a 10b? what do people have to say about this?
|By James Otey|
Aug 12, 2009
Oh rumors... It would take hundreds of years for water to make an appreciable, even noticeable difference. A hold broke last year, but it feels about the same as it always has.
|By Jeffrey LeCours|
From: New Hampshire
Aug 13, 2009
Mike: Like many routes, beta can make it feel a grade or two easier. Jakob's got this route down to the T. He's also a MUCH better, stronger climber than before... even if he won't let himself think that. :)
|By Chris Duca|
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Aug 18, 2009
I wouldn't say the route has gotten easier at all. The route up to the crux may only feel 10b, but the couple crux moves, in my opinion, still feel 10d. And regarding the size of the holds--If anything, they're only becoming more polished from sticky rubber and roadrunner feet, and not bigger from erosion.
Apr 5, 2010
The route looks amazing. Went to rumney specially to give it a go but was super wet while routes on left and right were dry. I must go there again for it :D
|By J. Albers|
Aug 12, 2010
Absolutely outstanding route. Best 5.10 that I've done at Rumney. In fact, it ranks up there with the best 10's at any place I have ever climbed. Though it is a bit short, if you link into 'All the Way-A' it makes for a decently long 5.10. Either way, the movement and rock quality are stellar. This is a very reasonable lead for those looking to break into 5.10+.
|By S. Neoh|
Aug 12, 2010
No doubt this is a very good route with a solid 3 stars from me. IMHO, Centerpiece, at a slightly sandbag grade of 10d, is better. Even better would be climbing Peer Pressure whole, without the rest about halfway up.