Waimea 

there is an old(?) bolt line that goes straight up the arete and face above the start of Dodge The Lemons... Just out of curiosity does anyone know the history on that line? A bolted line that never got done? or am I reading something wrong...

That is the way DTL was originally bolted, but it needs to be chopped and patched as the finish is pretty contrived if you don't pull into the corner, as DTL now goes.

Many of the draws at Waimea are becoming quite an issue. Between worn through aluminum clipping biners and UV bleached nylon tatter, I think it may be time to open up a discussion of funding Perma Draws from Climb Tech.

www.climbtechgear.com/PermaDraws/c13/p105/Cable-Draw---22kN->>>

There was a bit of an uproar surrounding the fixing of routes at Shagg crag, but judging by the sentiment of the RCA and enforcement by the Nation Forset Service, I think the issue would be approached more liberally.

I believe that it would be a responsible gesture for Waimea stewardship to gather a bunch of locals to chip in whatever they can to make Waimea a safer place to climb.

This would start by gathering a list of willing locals and deciding which routes should be tackled first (Techno, Whip Tide, Suburban).

I know many people are already on board to chip in cash. Lee, Jay, Kayte, Tom, and Emile have expressed interest. I'm sure we could find many more via word of mouth.

Fixing a 9 bolt route such as Techno would be around 170, while a longer route such as Whipe Tide would be more like 240.

Forum discussion can be found HERE:


mountainproject.com/v/waimea-perma-draw-discussion-/10719327>>>

I am up for discussion and cash contribution (both to within reason).
Which crags "allow" permanent fixed-draws and which do not?

Follow-up -
I e-mailed ClimbTech about making their Perma Draws less visible at Rumney and a Manager responded very quickly with this -
"We can and are ordering a clear greyish tubing. We can also special order different colors and powder coat biners and quick-links. It just adds expense. We could use a light grey tubing that we have in stock and the rest could be painted on-site to save some money if you wish.
Can you gives us an idea of potential quantities as well as the colors you are looking for and we can try to get a quote together."

Where and why did the ladder go?

it has been the subject of ethical battles which i have little understanding... the majority understood and accepted the ladder but it only takes one person to carry it away, so thats where it went...

Are we even sure it was removed (in this latest instance) for ethical reasons? I have heard that it was being used to clean boulder problems at some point. For all we know somebody spaced or had to leave the area and didn't put it back, so it might be stashed somewhere below the cliff. It might be worth scouring the area if it hasn't been done already.

As far as the fixed draws go, the RCA is still working with the Forest Service to tweak the Climbing Plan. Currently, all the fixed draws are technically considered "stashed gear" , and banned if they are left over 14 days. I believe the RCA is trying to reduce the number of fixed draws, but have those deemed really necessary be higher quality and be considered part of the bolt installation, and therefor legal in the eyes of the FS. That is my take, but it is all being discussed and worked out. In the mean time, as a pure safety consideration, we climbers need to get up, inspect and take down any old worn gear. If we could reduce the numbers some in the process, it would probably go a long way to convince the FS that we are not out of control, and more likely to be agreeable to our wishes.
Consensus opinion of Rumney climbers would probably be that fixed gear on the Man Overboard roof is "necessary", so I would think it would be OK to replace them for now.

all i know is that a wooden ladder, a metal ladder and a rope ladder were removed in a short time period so it seemed like no one was spacing out...

That's pretty convincing. I wasn't aware that so many iterations had occurred.