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The Amphitheater
Routes Sorted
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A Walk in the Light T 
Almost Seven (aka Golden Earring) T 
Aloof Roof T 
Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do T 
Command Performance T 
Do or Dive T 
Doan's Pills T 
Excellent Adventure T 
Finger Love T 
High Wire T 
Nuclear Crayon T 
Quaker State T 
Raise Hell T 
Shit Hook T 
Stab in the Dark T 
Step and Fetch T 
Wailing Wall T 
Zombie Woof T 

Wailing Wall 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,571
Submitted By: saxfiend on Sep 3, 2007

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Climbing Wailing Wall in mid november

Description 

A real gem for the grade, Wailing Wall may bring back memories of the Gunks if you've ever led High E. The amazing holds and great protection on the steep face are matched only by the exposure.

Starting at the left end of the Amphitheatre, either begin by climbing a chimney right of the arete, or (more exciting) climb the nice arete itself. Continue up level with the base of a roof, then move left onto the exposed face and straight up through a notch to the trees.


Location 

Starts just right of the arete at the left end of the Amphitheatre. Scramble down the gully from the trees to rap from fixed gear.


Protection 

Mostly medium gear; tricams are very useful. Build a gear anchor and/or sling trees.



Photos of Wailing Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Super fun rappel. Great exposure! You must have TWO ropes. Climber: Dolly Saunders
BETA PHOTO: Super fun rappel. Great exposure! You must have TW...
July 17th, 2011 First lead at Moores <br />
July 17th, 2011 First lead at Moores
Wailing Wall start
Wailing Wall start
Pretty good view of the Wailing Wall. Climber: Alex Carry
BETA PHOTO: Pretty good view of the Wailing Wall. Climber: Ale...
Ben Annibali on the super steep finishing moves of Wailing Wall.
Ben Annibali on the super steep finishing moves of...
Coming around the roof
BETA PHOTO: Coming around the roof
Looking up from optional 2nd belay.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from optional 2nd belay.
The start to Wailing Wall.
BETA PHOTO: The start to Wailing Wall.
Comments on Wailing Wall Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 14, 2012
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Sep 4, 2007

This is a fantastic climb; the exposure is almost as good as Zoo View, and you can't believe how nice the holds and pro are on the face section. Starting on the arete instead of the chimney adds to the fun.

By nbrown
From: western NC
Nov 8, 2007

To the best of my knowledge, a couple guys from the Raleigh area used to climb this route all the time before anyone else ever claimed an ascent. Cannot remember their last names, but they called themselves "Lewis and Clark". It's likely that they did the FA.

By Mike Flanagan
From: Boone, NC
Oct 26, 2008

classic moderate

By vanishing spy
Feb 27, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Sigh,My first Trad lead. Super awesome route and worth getting on no matter how hard you climb.

By gavin hermann
Jul 20, 2011

We climbed this last week its an awesome climb. A lot of exposure and an awesome climb, a lot of fun. Just watch out for the rope drag.

By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Nov 8, 2011

The exposure and unique rock on the billboard face are truly classic. Sling your pro and try not to place gear to your right to ease drag before turning the corner. If you only have a single 60, you can scramble right to rap from the Quaker State/Golden Earring anchors.

By Robert Hutchins
Dec 21, 2011

No need to go all the way to the Quaker State anchor to rap off if you only have a single 60m rope. After toping out, just head a back and a little to the right. Drop down into the natural recess and you will find an anchor that will take you back to within about 15' of start of the climb.

By Tim Fisher
Jan 21, 2012

I removed an old angle pin from this route in 1980. It was probably first climbed in the early 70s or earlier.

By Will Copeland
Mar 16, 2012

starting the first 15-20 feet on the other side of the arete bumps this one up a notch!

By S. Fischer
Apr 2, 2012

Great climb. The crux is certainly down low at the start. I made a gear anchor on a small ledge after moving left, just below the face. Great exposure and great holds everywhere.

I tried using the rings that Robert Hutchins mentions and sadly my 60m did not make it to the bottom even with rope stretch. Be sure to tie knots in the ends if you try it.

By Robert Hutchins
Apr 3, 2012

Sorry to hear that S.Fischer. You might want to check the length
of your rope. It's a good thing that you didn't try the Q.State anchor with the rope, as it sounds like it wouldn't have been close to reaching. The only other possible way I can think of that wouldn't leave you with rope on the ground would be if the rope was dropped significantly cliff-left in the notch and left you down-hill a little bit.

By GWB
May 14, 2012

I'm wondering if anyone has tried a variation finish that kicks the grade up a few grades. The finish I've done goes up the L shape weakness seen on the right side here in this photo. It is a lot of fun but would recommend doing the climb in 2 pitches due to the rope drag created when clearing the lip. Similar difficulty to Raise Hell IMO.

By nbrown
From: western NC
May 14, 2012

GWB,

Who knows when that thing was first done... I did that finish myself a few years back (maybe 10 or so), and remember it feeling about 10a, but I could be wrong as my memory is a bit fuzzy.