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The Sorcerer
Routes Sorted
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Atlantis T 
Davy Jones' Locker T 
Don Juan Wall, The T 
Ice Pirates T 
Lost at Sea T 
Pinhead T 
Pyromania T 
Raven, The T 
Scirocco S 
Sleight of Hand T 
Stars and Stripes Forever T 
Thin Ice T 
Tradewinds S 
Wailing Banshees T 
Unsorted Routes:

Wailing Banshees 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Randy Leavitt & Brett Maurer - '81
Page Views: 3,324
Submitted By: Dave M Snyder on Jun 9, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Upper dihedral details

Description 

Make a few hard moves off the ground and clip a bolt then continue upward over decent rock to the first anchor (apx. 70'). Pitch #2: Climb the crack up to where the corner shoots off right. Protect high in crack (#3 camalot) and then go right (crux) and fire up the corner. Continue up and place small (less than inspiring) gear where you can get it. The climbing becomes easier as you get higher and the gear gets better up high... You are then at the anchors of Scirocco. Pitch #3: Climb about 20' up from the Scirocco anchors and then move up and left via the very thin flake (if I remember correctly, we could see the final pitch of Don Juan at this belay). I can remember cleaning this pitch and thinking that I was glad that John didn't fall! Pitch #4: We traversed down and over to an easy chimney, then to the top

Location 

Down and left of Thin Ice.

Protection 

Standard rack with 2 - #3 camalots for the largest pieces.


Photos of Wailing Banshees Slideshow Add Photo
Darren leading 1st pitch (10-) of Wailing Banshees...
Darren leading 1st pitch (10-) of Wailing Banshees...
Wailing Banshees is the - Dihedral
BETA PHOTO: Wailing Banshees is the - Dihedral
Creating the power to send below banshees.
Creating the power to send below banshees.

Comments on Wailing Banshees Add Comment
Show which comments
By Levy
From: Reseda, CA
Jun 14, 2009

There is a third pitch of this route not mentioned in the description above. From the bolted anchors where Sirocco's arete pitch joins Wailing Banshees, a left curving, brown edged flake leads out on 5.10 D liebacks before curving back left again. This leads to easy(5.7 or so ) jug-hauling to the top of the Sorcerer. This is a very worthwhile pitch & should not be missed!
By Darren in Vegas
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 15, 2009

Levy is right, go left for a third and fourth pitch and you will not be dissapointed. The third pitch is sweet, with challenging but good gear. Pitch four my partner went left to an easy chimney, and because he didn't place gear I was able to top rope up the knobs that Levy mentions. I think that the knobs section was tough and would be hard to protect.
By sam.f
From: Santa Cruz, CA
Oct 29, 2009

I have to second (and third) the above comments. Maybe the route description should be revised...? I think the route is not complete until you have done the 3rd pitch, then after that, you might as well top-out (not even sure retreat is possible, w/out leaving gear anyway). This is a classic route, and bailing after the 2nd pitch is not really "completing" it, imo.
By SirTobyThe3rd
May 26, 2015

The crux on pitch two protects well enough. You can place gear, even though it is a bit fiddly, but it does not fall out and looks ok. I think offset purple/grey metolius is nice to have after the semi-fixed (hopefully still there when you do it) nut.

The real crux is the boulder problem to start the route. Very hard moves to clip the first bolt and than to get up from the bolt to the ramp above it is hard as hrll. Major decking potential if you blow the mantle. Was very happy that I was leading the 2nd pitch and not this one...
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