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 ADVANCED
Wild Horse Wall
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Bronc, The T 
Even Cowgirls Get the Blues T 
Mustang Sally T 
Wailing Banshee T 

Wailing Banshee 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 1986 Bill Hatcher, Jim Waugh
Page Views: 104
Submitted By: bgarrett on Mar 8, 2010

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PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Excellent climbing! We climbed it on TR. This is the standard rappel descent for the wall. I thought this was very difficult for 10A, and I would only lead it if I could stick-clip the first bolt. Otherwise, you must make cruxy moves over a bad landing to clip. Once the first bolt is clipped, the climbing continues to be difficult(5.10c?), though the bolts are in good positions. After four bolts, clip another bolt and climb a funky, awkward groove to anchors. I would recommend this lead to solid 5.10 leaders with a stick-clip for first bolt.

Location 

This is the second climb to the right of the Bronc. Single rope rappel.

Protection 

5 good bolts and optional small nuts or aliens for top groove.


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