Wailing Banshee
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | 1986 Bill Hatcher, Jim Waugh |
Page Views: | 1,053 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | bgarrett on Mar 8, 2010 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS!
Details
In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.
Description
Excellent climbing! We climbed it on TR. This is the standard rappel descent for the wall. I thought this was very difficult for 10A, and I would only lead it if I could stick-clip the first bolt. Otherwise, you must make cruxy moves over a bad landing to clip. Once the first bolt is clipped, the climbing continues to be difficult(5.10c?), though the bolts are in good positions. After four bolts, clip another bolt and climb a funky, awkward groove to anchors. I would recommend this lead to solid 5.10 leaders with a stick-clip for first bolt.
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