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Unsorted Routes:

Wafer Step 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 5,119
Submitted By: T. Moon on Jun 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (56)
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Breanna (10 years old) on Wafer Step.

Description 

A great 5.5 climb in a very scenic location. Scramble to the top of a detached block. Jam the steep, vertical crack to a stance. From here the angle lays back and you follow the beautiful left arching crack until it joins a vertical crack (the top of Recollections of Pacifica). Belay from the two bolt anchor. Rappel with one rope.


Location 

Follow the main trail from the road. You'll come to a wall. Traverse left a short distance to the end of the wall and then straight up talus until you reach the South Wall (about 100 feet). Go right and them up some very cool old stone stairs. Continue on until you see the large detached block and two cracks. Wafer Step is the furthest right crack.


Protection 

Eats up finger & hand sized gear.



Photos of Wafer Step Slideshow Add Photo
A windy lead up wafer step
A windy lead up wafer step
Chris cruising the arching crack on Wafer Step, 5.5.
Chris cruising the arching crack on Wafer Step, 5....
Andy nearing the end of Wafer Step.
Andy nearing the end of Wafer Step.
Wafer step's arching goodness
Wafer step's arching goodness
Beautiful view at the top
Beautiful view at the top
Comments on Wafer Step Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anthony Codega
Aug 5, 2010

You'll want a number 5 stopper to protect the thin crack at the top! And a long runner to make sure it doesn't pop out....

By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Oct 7, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Should be nominated for most wonderful 5.5 on the planet. If it were a thousand feet long, I'd drive ten hours in an unregistered '78 Chevette with bald tires and a milk crate for a driver's seat just to do it.

By jim.dangle
Nov 27, 2011

Fun climb with a great view. As another commenter said you definitely want your smallest gear to protect the thin crack at the top.

Jim

By Julia Lee
From: Somerville, MA
Jul 9, 2013

Definitely would agree with needing micro-nuts at the top. I'm 5'2" so I had a little difficulty getting to the good hold at the top. A little spicy for short people.

By mikejohnson1
From: Essex Junction, VT
Jul 13, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Really great climb. Just a note, I was somewhat worried that this was affected by the Perigrine falcon closure but as of yesterday it is not. Also, the closure is clearly marked with string and a sign.

Enjoy!