A pinchy vertical line with few rests. Straight up the slightly overhanging wall using crimpers and plenty of edging. Climb right of the overhang to finger pockets, then up to the chains.
The first bolted route at the base of the 5.11 Wall, just right of Bandolier.
This is a sport route with 5 bolts. Dual chains on top.
By Brad "Stonyman" Killough Administrator From: Alabama Oct 22, 2008
Nice lead, the plus part of the grade comes at the end (crimpy)
By charris Sep 26, 2011
Not sure when it happened, but there is now a fun 5.8 next to this on the right and there appear to be some easy slab climbs even further right. Both the 5.9 and 5.8 stay dry enough to climb even in heavy rain.
By Alexander L'Grand Apr 14, 2012 rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
There will be wet holds at the top in the spring, but you can avoid them.
By Matt Roberts From: Columbus, OH Jun 3, 2012 rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
The first route to the immediate right is Dream of a Bee (5.8). The slab climb further right is Cordelia (5.8).
Wadcutter is a heady lead for a 5.9.
By MattG. From: Palatine, IL Nov 8, 2013 VIDEO