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Waco not Hueco 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mark Stevenson
Page Views: 609
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Aug 8, 2010

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South side crags access issue. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start by climbing up overhanging rock and right to reach a left leaning feature, follow the feature to a horizontal. From here, traverse a little to the right and then up and left aiming for a nice horn and a good rest. Shake out, and head right and up to a thin face (crux). Gain a nice ledge and follow a flake to the hueco. This route is pretty sustained for the grade, but very high quality.

Location 

From the point where the approach trail meets the cliff, head right. Continue along the cliff passing the beautiful Replicant, 5.11d dihedral. Keep going, passing many long sport lines over orange rock and a lichen covered wall. When you come of a large flat boulder about 6 feet tall, you'll see a concentration of sport lines. Between this boulder and the wall, look for a line on orange rock with shuts to the left of a large hueco.

Protection 

5 bolts, shuts.


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By Jon Guczek
From: Bartow,WV
Jun 4, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 
Theres a huge horn thats poking out to the right alittle ways near above the ledge just before the upper slab section. DONT GRAB IT !!! the things loose and ready to blow. I think its a slightly off route anyways and you dont need it but just thought I'd the pass word along as it almost came out on me.