|Owl's Head Cliff (Oliverian Notch)
This climb starts at a crescent moon finger crack (5-8-) that was pinned. After the crack move into arch and follow it left to gain (5-7) large platform to belay. You are now on the outside corner face of the east side of the dike. Do some trickery mantling moves through a solid block face until you can exit left onto another platform. Climb up to another platform and climb the pine tree on the right fifteen ft. enabling you to step off past a unclimbable ceiling. Friction (5-6) immediately onto the roof slab above this ceiling while the tree sways back and forth. After sustained friction slab is run up belay in tree ledges. Climb ledges and past trees to summit. Much loose rock was removed out of the arch on this first ascent.
Best to get to high ground just past the beak buttress and traverse west to the end of this traverse ledge. Above you visually noticeable will be the crescent crack. Other approaches are a bit dangerous up dirt channels.
trad rack and a couple of fixed pins. Walk off.
|By Tom Bowker|
From: somewhere in the USA
Apr 27, 2010
Great adventure! I remember doing the tree pitch on a windy day! Crazy! That was 20 years ago. The tree may be a bit stouter now.