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 ADVANCED
Owl's Head Cliff (Oliverian Notch)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Armstrong Arches. T 
Beak Buttress (the nose), The T 
Bert's climb T 
Bert's Right Facing Corner  T 
Bolted face E3 or Black Velvet S 
Bolted face Route E1 S 
Bolted Face Route E2 or Power Failure S 
Bolted face Route E4 or Slab Happy S 
Bolted face route E5 or Van Burren Route S 
E12 T 
E6 or White Lightning T,S 
E8 or Leading cause  T 
E9 or Leading Cause variation right side. T 
Energizer E10 T 
giant dead tree corner, The T 
Great Circle Route, The T 
Left side of Boiler Plates Route E7  T 
R&B T 
Rapper, The T 
Revelations or E11 T 
Spare Ribs T 
Variations to Bert's Climb  T 
W1  T 
W2 T 
W3 T 
W4 T 
W5 T 
W6 T 

W4 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Bradley White and Ted Hammond, 1982 or 3
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 222
Submitted By: bradley white on Jul 22, 2009

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Description 

This climb starts at a crescent moon finger crack (5-8-) that was pinned. After the crack move into arch and follow it left to gain (5-7) large platform to belay. You are now on the outside corner face of the east side of the dike. Do some trickery mantling moves through a solid block face until you can exit left onto another platform. Climb up to another platform and climb the pine tree on the right fifteen ft. enabling you to step off past a unclimbable ceiling. Friction (5-6) immediately onto the roof slab above this ceiling while the tree sways back and forth. After sustained friction slab is run up belay in tree ledges. Climb ledges and past trees to summit. Much loose rock was removed out of the arch on this first ascent.

Location 

Best to get to high ground just past the beak buttress and traverse west to the end of this traverse ledge. Above you visually noticeable will be the crescent crack. Other approaches are a bit dangerous up dirt channels.

Protection 

trad rack and a couple of fixed pins. Walk off.


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By Tom Bowker
From: somewhere in the USA
Apr 27, 2010

Great adventure! I remember doing the tree pitch on a windy day! Crazy! That was 20 years ago. The tree may be a bit stouter now.