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Owl's Head Cliff (Oliverian Notch)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Armstrong Arches. 
Beak Buttress (the nose), The 
Bert's climb 
Bert's Right Facing Corner  
Bolted face E3 or Black Velvet 
Bolted face Route E1 
Bolted Face Route E2 or Power Failure 
Bolted face Route E4 or Slab Happy 
Bolted face route E5 or Van Burren Route 
E6 or White Lightning 
E8 or Leading cause  
E9 or Leading Cause variation right side. 
Energizer E10 
giant dead tree corner, The 
Great Circle Route, The 
Left side of Boiler Plates Route E7  
Rapper, The 
Revelations or E11 
Spare Ribs 
Variations to Bert's Climb  


YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Unkown
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 193
Submitted By: bradley white on Jul 22, 2009
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This climb has two starts. You can either begin up the outside corner's face long crux (5-8-)(protected by two bolts, these bolts looked poorly 20+ years ago) and get stopper gear in higher up or go up hill east to enter above this face by a traverse onto the outside corner. Once on the outside corner continue up face short crux (5-8-) to reach horizontal tree ledge and belay. From the tree ledge climb the v-groove crack (5-5) and traverse left to end of tree ledge to belay. From this ledge move up and left through break in arch (5-6) to the summit. The V-groove tends to fill up with leaves and dirt unless someone has recently climbed it. It's easily cleared away while climbing. The last pitch at the top and is often damp. Pitch one especially when traversing into the face should be split into two pitches because of the rope drag.


There is a giant dike on the western side of the cliff. This outside corner is the western wall of the dike.


Trad rack. Walk off.

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