Vuluptuous Ham  5.5 R

49 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.5 [details] FA:  Chuck Parker, 1973 Season:  Any Submitted By:  Ted Smith on Feb 6, 2013 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Route Overview

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

The crux is getting past chossy stone and firmly engaging the chimney above an overhanging roof to the North of the chimney. After that, it is all about keeping a cool head as you make your way up the exposed, steep rock toward the top of the chimney, where an easy, protected (bolt) step across takes one to the North summit.

Protection 

Large tube chocks (#5 Big Bro) will protect the 50 ft of chimney above. One might venture out left and clip the bolts on the arete (Hamster Variation), but a good 20 feet of climbing is needed above the horizontal before making the exposed move. At the top, one can either sling a boulder for an anchor, or run the rope all the way to the East side of the North summit, where 3 anchor bolts (huge) can be found.

Location 

At the Northernmost part of the North Summit facing West. Approach from the Wedge trail and around the North side of the pinnacles.