The crux is getting past chossy stone and firmly engaging the chimney above an overhanging roof to the North of the chimney. After that, it is all about keeping a cool head as you make your way up the exposed, steep rock toward the top of the chimney, where an easy, protected (bolt) step across takes one to the North summit.
Large tube chocks (#5 Big Bro) will protect the 50 ft of chimney above. One might venture out left and clip the bolts on the arete (Hamster Variation), but a good 20 feet of climbing is needed above the horizontal before making the exposed move. At the top, one can either sling a boulder for an anchor, or run the rope all the way to the East side of the North summit, where 3 anchor bolts (huge) can be found.
At the Northernmost part of the North Summit facing West. Approach from the Wedge trail and around the North side of the pinnacles.
|By Ted Smith|
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Nov 20, 2013
If one uses a blue (#4) big bro between the horizontal and the first bolt, a gold (#5) big bro can be used up higher so that the climb is well protected--particularly if both bolts are clipped. I'm guessing that would make it a 5.8 route, since climbing through the bolts is old school 5.8 (Jim Waugh). Great bolts and hangers!!!