Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Little on the Ugly Side 
Automotive Supply House 
Baldwin's Chimney 
Banana Hammock 
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) 
Bat Heaven 
Bombs Away aka B52 
Bug Squad 
Captain Nemo 
Central Scrutinizer, The 
Cool Hand Luke 
Deep Throat 
Drunken Redneck Rappellers 
Easy Jam 
Etude For The Left Hand 
Etude For The Right Hand 
Failure to Communicate 
Father 1 
Final Cut, The 
Flare Thee Well 
Flying Buttress 
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated 
Friday the 13th 
Friday the 13th, Part 2 
Ghost Dance 
Grand Traverse, The 
Gravity's Rainbow 
H & H Grunt 
Hamburger Crack 
Harder Than Your Husband 
Hesitation Blues 
In The Dark 
In the Groove 
Jim Jam 
Knee Grinder 
Left Torpedo Tube 
Lower Progressive 
Lower Slot and Upper Slot 
Lower Slot Left 
Lucky You 
Max Factor 
Middle Parallel Space 
Mother 1 
Nemo's Nemesis 
Nemo's Toad 
Nitrogen Narcosis 
October Light 
Old Eyeful 
Par Four 
Petite Tarsalation 
Piton Perch 
Popcorn Farce 
Postman, The 
Republic, The 
Right Parallel Space 
Right Torpedo Tube 
Right Winger 
Sitdown Seam 
Slab Stealer 
Slick and Superficial 
Soak'em In Cider 
Stand and Deliver 
Straight 4 Ward 
Sun Up To Sundown 
Ted's Trot 
Thin Lizzy 
Twinkle Toes 
Upper Progressive 
Upper Slot Left 
Vedajuicer, The 
Vulture Direct 
War Zone 
Where the Sidewalk Ends 
Whipping Boy 
Unsorted Routes:

Vulture Direct 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 886
Submitted By: david goldstein on Jul 18, 2004
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]


A relatively fun and varied wide crack.

Start as for Right Parallel Space, but stay right in the slot and head for the shallow, hanging chimney. Employ chimney and offwidth technique for about 20' feet until stemming is possible; this crux section is well protected using the hand and finger crack at the back of the wide crack. Stem for about twenty feet into an alcove where you trend left, passing an optional, uninspiring anchor and reach a low angle wide crack. This crack has plentiful face holds on its left side and lasts for about 25'; it would probably take a 4.5 Camalot which we did not have. When this last wide crack ends, face climb straight up to chain anchors at the top of the buttress; somewhere in this stretch it is nice to have a couple of cams 1" and smaller. Rope drag can be a problem if doing this as one pitch so sling accordingly.

Rappel as for Middle Parallel Space -- two raps the first about 40', the second _ 100'.


Nuts to 4.5 Camalot, slings

Comments on Vulture Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rob Dillon
Jul 26, 2004

Maybe it was a high-gravity day, but this is possibly the hardest ".10a" I've ever climbed. Anyone else feel this way?

By Craig Scariot
Aug 22, 2004

Rob, I agree completely

By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Apr 21, 2005

I also agree - very hard for the grade. And be careful of all the bat shit.

By chris parks
Jul 14, 2005

Did this climb a few weeks ago. There is a raptor [nest] equiped with raptors at the top of this thing. Probably should avoid this climb for awhile. I attempted leading this thing and fell out just after the squeeze section. Also couldnt get this thing when following so I would agree this is a hard 10a,

By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Jun 18, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I didn't think this was to bad, just climb the chimney left side in and start stemming as soon as possible when you get to the hand crack.

By Brian Weinstein
Jul 27, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

A demanding and physical route that is so typical of Vedauwoo, this pitch is earned...especially when you're face is in loads of guano.

By Mike D
From: Fort Collins, CO
Dec 13, 2009

I've been wanting to get on this climb for a long whlie now but haven't because of all the bat shit. It looks great, but with so many other great climbs near-by it just is not worth it. If anyone has a gas powered pressure washer with a long hose, let me know if I can borrow it (only joking...well...errr...maybe!!)