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Routes in Anteater - East
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Circus Direct T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Circus Roof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Flyboy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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No Net T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Vulture Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,887 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | GRK on Aug 24, 2010 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
Worthy of a quick spin, the Vulture Crack will deliver entertainment. Solid gear, an aesthetic line, and a rewarding crux make this a good option on a crowded day. Plan on devoting time to this one.
Rack up and belay from the ground then scramble up the slab to reach the start. Begin with a solid hand crack that leads up and into the "vultures den". Crawl out of this trap and forge on to a small, sloping ledge at the base of a dihedral. Follow an excellent crack up for 20 feet to the routes end. Build an anchor.
To descend walk off to the west or north using the anchors of Scream Cheese or Fly Boy to rap.
Rack up and belay from the ground then scramble up the slab to reach the start. Begin with a solid hand crack that leads up and into the "vultures den". Crawl out of this trap and forge on to a small, sloping ledge at the base of a dihedral. Follow an excellent crack up for 20 feet to the routes end. Build an anchor.
To descend walk off to the west or north using the anchors of Scream Cheese or Fly Boy to rap.
Location
Vulture Crack is the obvious and most prominent crack/dihedral in the middle of the face on the east side of the Anteater.
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