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 ADVANCED
The Coliseum
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Gladiator T 
Handcrack-a-rete T 
Hollow Man T,S 
Ionic Column T,S 
Lion's Face, The T 
Lost in Time T,S 
Planetary Pull T 
Unleash The Lions T 
Vrainavore T 
Wrinkle in Time T 
Unsorted Routes:

Vrainavore 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob Jasperson, Sergio Poyares, Alex Tinsley, 2002
Page Views: 672
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Aug 20, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Beginning the crack proper is difficult, and the g...

Description 

Vrainavore is a sustained gnarly crack climb on the right side of the Hollow Man dihedral. There are several hard sections with no particular crux. The Gillett guide shows the crux at the overlap near the top, but that didn't seem any harder than below, and perhaps more straightforward. Gear is excellent with perhaps only a little funk near the bottom where you enter the crack. Halfway up you can move right to the Handcrack-a-rete anchors for a rest or belay, or a few feet higher for gear. You could, at this point, continue up the arete to the ceiling to avoid the difficult upper corner.

Location 

On the right side of The Coliseum is a mossy obvious corner that is visible from the road. Four climbs start from here: Hollow Man is the crack on the left; Planetary Pull is the first crack on the right starting halfway up; Vrainavore 10a is the main crack system on the right. Handcrack-a-rete is the crack system just right of the arete.

To descend, you can rap either the left or right side of the arete in two single-rope rappels. The right side has some rope hazards. The knots on both ends of our rope got stuck in the block at the tree at the base of P2 of Lost in Time.

Protection 

Cams to old #3.5 or new #4 Camalot (gray), maybe doubles in the medium sizes. I used a few finger size nuts and cams. Two bolt anchor at the top with rings. I used the big cam at the overlap, but other, smaller gear is available there.


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By slim
Administrator
Sep 23, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Interesting route with fairly sustained climbing. Linking it in one pitch requires budgeted use of the rack, or an extensive rack. The rock quality (some rottenish spots, some spots with hanging flakes or columns) and sustained nature 'talked me' into using a lot of gear.

The new guide shows the first half as 5.9 and the little roof as 10a, but it all felt pretty sustained at a consistent 9'ish level. All total, I would give it 10a.
By Ross
From: Pinewood Springs
Oct 12, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Take slim's rock quality comment with a grain of salt. After finishing the climb, I did not remember any choss problems until I read the comment.
By slim
Administrator
Oct 12, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I wouldn't call it chossy, but the rock isn't exactly 100% good either. I kind of thought it made the route fun in a way.
By Kevin Wieczorek
Jul 27, 2014

I just did this for the first time, and I'd call the rock dirty but not dangerous. It seems to see a lot less traffic than the other routes nearby. Otherwise, I thought it was a fun route, with mostly 5.9 climbing, and for me, the overlap near the top was the crux. I did it as a single pitch to the second anchors on Hand-crack-arÍte, and a double rack with a single #4 C4 felt sufficient. The crack is varied, and you can often find small placements to save the hands-sized cams. If you want to really sew it up, you could bring more gear and/or break it into two pitches.