|173 page views|
This route begins at the same alcove as Vrain Dead. It is a wonderful route with 50 feet of continuous, difficult slab. Unfortunately, the pro leaves little to be desired. Until some more bolts are added (or the buttonheads replaced)it makes a better TR than a lead.
Step up on the horizontal, and make a balancy clip to the good bolt. The crux is moving from this stance to the small horizontal crack in between bolt one and two. Once at this stance you want to clip, but you've got one more hard move to go. A less than perfect belay could cause you to fall on the pillar below if you fell.
Once above the crux the slab becomes cleaner and more polished. Clip the buttonhead, and edge up the perfect slab 11- then 10+, and run it out a long ways to the next buttonhead. Avove the third clip there are a few more 10ish slab moves, and a long ways untill the secure arching crack and the anchors above.
Great route, but TR or make sure you are very solid on slab!
Count 'em, Three Draws and big nuts (not the kind on your rack). You might be able to place a nut towards the top, but after what you just climbed you wont need it!2 Bolts with chains at the top.