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 ADVANCED
Atlantis Wall - Left
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Galumphing TR 
Grain for Russia T 
Grain Surplus T 
Neptune T 
Trident T 
Vorpal Sword T 
White Russian TR 

Vorpal Sword 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Brian Sillasen & Tom Atherton, 1988
Page Views: 1,405
Submitted By: Joe Brophy on Feb 6, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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John from Santa Barbara crusing up Vorpal Sword o...

Description 

This route is on the left side of the Atlantis wall and is the slightly left-slanting crack with a distinctive diamond-shaped chockstone near the top. This climb should be on the list of the 5.8 leader or anyone else who is in this neck of the woods. Fun climbing, but as always "wish it were longer"!

Protection 

For this route you will want a set of stoppers and gear to 2.5". The route will protect well with gear to 1" and the anchor will require up to 2.5"


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By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 19, 2006

One of the better climbs at this very popular wall; two stars out of five.

The name of this route is a reference to Jabberwocky
By DaveGustafson
From: Palm Desert, CA
Feb 23, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Agreed with the other post that Vorpal Sword is a fun route... a "must do" while others are on the more popular routes in the area. Well-protected route.
I might be off on the star-rating system on this site, but I think it deserves 3 out of 4 stars.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 23, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Indeed, many will find this a fun route for the grade. Two stars out of four.
By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
May 27, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

While you're over here, hit up Galumphing as well, you won't be disappointed. Both Jabberwocke references.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 19, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It's been a few years, but I remember a disturbingly loose/flexing hold up high...might be wise to pro up even if you're well below your limit. Fun pitch.