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 ADVANCED
The Bastille - W Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blind Faith T 
Breakfast in Bed T 
Bridge-it Bardot (aka Hat Trick) T 
Chance of Rain T,TR 
Cream T 
Hair City T 
Implied Consent T,TR 
Let Them Eat Cake T 
Neon Lights T 
New Chautauqua T 
Out to Lunge T 
Out to Lunge ... with Dessert T 
Rain T 
Serengeti Spaghetti T 
Stem Gem T 
Sunset Boulevard S 
Sunshine Daydream T 
Voodoo T 
West Arete T 
West Buttress T 
West Face [Bastille] T 
West Side aka West Chimney T 
Your Mother S 

Voodoo 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Harrison, Stuberg, Brooks, 1981.
Page Views: 731
Submitted By: Matt Bauman on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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BETA PHOTO: Just above the crux on the first pitch. The chock...

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Short (60 feet) route...just down from the Bastille trail on upper west face...locate large V-slot with a huge chockstone that you can easily climb under. Climb the messy looking V-corner and just above the Chockstone turn small roof into steep V-slot (crux). Cruise this to the large and messy belay ledge.

Protection 

Small cams and medium hexes.


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Voodoo.
Voodoo.

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By Chris Fisher
Jul 2, 2001

[Definitely] not the rock quality you expect from Eldo. Getting into the v-slot was the only fun move. I also did the second pitch and found myself climbing through tons of pigeon droppings.
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Oct 22, 2001

It doesn't deserve the star that it get's in the new Eldo Guide. To start the second pitch go directly up the bulge just left of where the first pitch comes up and traverse under the pigeon shit to a very licheny corner. Go up the corner to a ledge and up an obvious but not pretty groove. It's probably better to rappel than to try to find the walk-off.
By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
May 29, 2003

I had a lot of fun on this climb..P1 only. It's not the 'classic', by any means, but I think this would be a great climb to take a less-experienced climber on, or good for those 'time-frame issue' climbing mornings, (if Out To Lunge and Breakfast in Bed was busy)--It's short, fun, and no raps required. The pro was a little weird, though, I thought. Based on comments, I'm glad I didn't do the Poo-poo second pitch.
By Bruce Berkowitz
Aug 22, 2003

Agree with above. I thought this climb was highly overrated in both quality and difficulty. Theres only one remotely challanging move on the climb .
By XOG
Jan 14, 2004

If you like doo-doo, do do Voodoo. Wrote that next to the route description in my guide in '93 or 4 or so, sounds like it still applies!