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Leading out past the first bolt
Excellent pitch of slab climbing! Thin moves angling up and left past three bolts. Crux is well protected, but 5.9 runout above is not. Belay on small ledge with three bolt anchor.
This pitch starts in the gully above Obituary Column but below the tree.
Joe on Voodoo Child
Joe at the second bolt
view from the top of the pitch-cindy is at the obi...
i think this is just above the crux
|By Charles Vernon|
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 18, 2010
This is actually a four-pitch route starting from the left end of Pine Tree ledge. Pitches 1 & 2 as shown in SQ II are fun (particularly the arching 5.9 corner), mildly spicy, and can be combined. They are not as good as Quick Death, but worth doing if you've already done that route. A light rack to a #2 friend is sufficient for these pitches. After the crux, the last pitch heads slightly up and right past several bolts, finishing with a fun, albeit contrived roof to the chickenheads.
3 stars for the full original line and 4 for the Chiboni/Quick Death/VC linkup. The crux slab pitch is beautiful! The map shows a low 5.10 variation which I investigated but couldn't figure out how to initiate. I can't imagine how this climb would have felt (well, terrifying maybe) in "Royal Robbins blue suede boots."
- edit: Went back and led VC again, this time figured out how to do the low 5.10 variation. You have to go *real* low--clip the crux bolt, then downclimb straight down for several moves, then tiptoe left on a little dike until it's possible to move back up. I didn't think it was nearly as good as going up and left.
|By Clay Mansfield|
Aug 2, 2011
The fact that this pitch was put up in blue suede boots is both mind-boggling and humbling. Beautiful slab.
Dec 21, 2012
Interesting that it's been bumped up to 10d/11a. I used to love this route. A little story-telling here...
Roughly 1979. I was in the Summit Hut inquiring about a partner for the weekend. Don't recall the fellow's name, but supposedly a very strong climber, but he hadn't been climbing in a while; Jim gave me his number. Well, I called the guy and we were on. I was the young buck, the upstart, the newbie. Flash forward to Saturday.
We're on the crux pitch. I'm trying to lead this thing. Yes, must have been in my old RR's. The more experienced fellow was actually scared, and wasn't really into it. I took a fall at the crux. Cursed a little, and got back on. Took the same fall at the same place. Got back on. Hit it a third time. This time, I went flying for a 30 foot whipper. I knew he let a lot of line through. This pissed me off. I reminded him in no uncertain terms that he signed on to climb together, and I planned on getting this route.
Well, I went up one more time. I was afraid the guy would actually drop me. Fortunately, this provided the necessary impetus to clean the crux, which I did, and then brought him up.
A fabulous route that I went back to climb several times after that, with regular partners.
Never did climb with that guy again. But it was my first big whipper. Oh, Lord... youth and fearlessness. Glad to be still alive and climbing.