Voodoo Child 5.11d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c/d [details] |
| FA: | Chip Ruckgraber, Steve Sandal, John Baldwin 1988 |
| Submitted By: | Willie Mein on Jun 12, 2002 |
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Description Voodoo Child climbs up the steep corner on the right side of The Wall of Voodoo, 15 to the right of the excellent jug fest, Porch Monkey 12a/b.
Although the initial 20 feet is slightly chossy, the business on this route is steep and funky, on good rock.
Rolofson's guide gives this route a 12a/b rating, however, it is really about 5.11d.
Protection 8 bolts to a two bolt anchor.
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Jun 30, 2002
| These must of got switched around in the guide book. Voodoo child is the route on the left, 5.11d; Porch Monkeys is the middle line of bolts out a roof to start, 5.12a; Sufferin' Succatash is the right hand route up a corner, 5.11? Steve Sangdahl. |
By Willie Mein
Aug 26, 2002
| Thanks Steve for the correction. I was going off Rolofson's guide and I believe the routes are switched. Not only are the names wrong, but the ratings seem switched too. At the time I climbed these it didn't matter, because we didn't have a guidbook. I only referenced the guide before submitting the rock and the routes to this site.
Anyhow, the far left route seems 5.11- until the ending (5.12b/c?) move. I didn't get it, and therefore I didn't write it up. Perhaps I'm missing something. The middle route sounds correct at about 5.12a, and the rightmost seemed 11d or 12a. Whatever the names and ratings, these are all good sport routes. |
By stephen sangdahl
Aug 26, 2002
| Willie, the 5.11d rating for Voodoo Child is "old school" i.e. sand-bag It probably is 5.12a. Glad you enjoyed the routes. |
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