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 ADVANCED
Rappel Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baradur T 
Bender-Axen T 
Black Magic Woman T 
Black Quacker T 
Charadras T 
Chiboni T 
Chicken Sh*t Sandwich T 
Corner, The T 
Helm's Deep T 
Lude T 
Not So Easy Arch T 
Other Way, The T 
Quick Death T 
Standard Route T 
Voodoo Child S 
Voodoo Child (direct start) T 
Unsorted Routes:

Voodoo Child (direct start) 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Steve Grossman '79
Season: sprng seasonal closure
Page Views: 574
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jul 20, 2009

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  • Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>
  • Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The first face left of Black Quacker is the direct start. Moderate climbing leads to a series of knobs then stiff move up and right then a runout 5.8 section adds spice to the hard sequence.

    Protection 

    Slings, stoppers and gear to 3".


    Comments on Voodoo Child (direct start) Add Comment
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    By John Hayes
    From: Bend, OR
    Jan 4, 2010

    This description is only for the start of Voodoo Child. The upper 5.11a pitches are the best and I would recommend skipping the lower pitches. Start with Chiboni, do the Quick Death pitch to the 3rd pitch of the Black Quacker to get on the upper pitches. You can get on either Voodoo Child (5.11a) or Black Magic Woman (5.10 b/c) from the middle of the third pitch of the Black Quacker.
    By John Hayes
    From: Bend, OR
    Jan 4, 2010

    Dull? I'm not sure we are talking about the same pitch. Anyway, it's been probably 15 years since I did it, but I seem to recall doing Voodoo child from the ground up so I'm pretty sure you can go from the base to the top (or at least to the chicken heads near the top) on the climb. Since then, I've just skipped the lower pitches to do the 11a pitch to the top (pretty much next to Black Magic Woman.) There is certainly room for opinion, but I think that pitch is pretty fun and the lead above the crux always seemed pretty sporty.
    By Geir
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Jul 4, 2010

    did voodoo child bottom to top a few years ago with shawn bradley and we both enjoyed it a lot. the start of the climb was spicy and fun; i enjoyed the upper 5.11a pitch as well. as rick said there are at least three variations for the end of the bolted 11a pitch; regardless of the way you do this section you'll have to make several moves to get to the final bolt on the pitch. a fall here could be pretty bumpy as the previous bolt is fairly far down and to your right.