Voie Rébuffat-Baquet 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 700 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | |
| Season: | Summer/Fall |
| Submitted By: | Seleucus on Jun 19, 2012 |
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BETA PHOTO: Topo of Voie Rebuffat: somewhat approximate especi...
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Description The Voie Rébuffat-Baquet is a truly beautiful line in a fantastic setting. The route is rather well equipped for a trad route there are oftentimes pitons in the most difficult sections and the belays are equipped for rappel. With the proximity of both the Aiguille de Midi telepherique and the Cosmiques refuge, it has become possible to do this climb with fairly minimal commitment for climbers who would otherwise avoid the long approaches and committing routes of the Chamonix Aiguilles.
That being said, this is a route at high altitude with highly variable weather. Be prepared! Fatigue can quickly slow a party who are unused to climbing at altitude and snow or ice on the route can render otherwise simple pitches very difficult. Furthermore, the weather can change at any moment and rappelling the route in bad conditions can become very difficult.
Pitch 1 (5.8/5.9): Go straight up and obvious dihedral, pull through a vertical section, continue on up the dihedral. Next move left along a horizontal crack and pull up the face to the anchors under the roof (or alternatively belay at the anchors at the left end of the roof). Note: there are many other variations to this first pitch, for example one can traverse left from higher up on the snow but this can require crossing a snow-covered ledge.
Pitch 2 (5.10a): Typically considered the crux pitch. Move up the s-shapped crack and curve left to a belay.
| Climbers on Pitch 3 & 4 of the Voie Rébuffat-Baquet (photo taken at top of pitch 4 having linked pitches 3 & 4).
Submitted By: Seleucus on Jun 21, 2012
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Pitch 3 (5.9): Move up and to the right following the obvious weakness. Make a tenuous move left to a face hold and climb up a system comprised of a crack (on the left) and a flake (on the right) until you reach the belay at the top.
| Climbing the crack above the crux on pitch 4 (5.9+).
Submitted By: Seleucus on Jun 21, 2012
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Pitch 4 (5.9+): Move down and to the left. From here move up to a protruding flake. Move behind the flake or go outside of it to gain a left slanting ramp. Climb the crack on the ramp to a good belay ledge.
Pitch 5 (5.8): From the belay ledge go right and continue up the ramp. Make awkward moves across a slab and go up the obvious crack system. Belay at the top.
Pitch 6 (5.5): Move up and trend left to find the belay.
Pitch 7 (5.6): Continue trending left and up. It is also possible to do a bolted variant which goes more directly to the top and runs at 5.10b.
Location From Aiguille de Midi descend the Arete de Midi to the glacier. On the glacier, Aiguille de Midi will appear on your right. Follow the safest way to the base of the climb paying attention for crevasses.
Protection Slings, a rack of cams, a set of nuts.
The belays are bolted and equipped for rappel. Also, there are a decent number of pitons which can be clipped.
Climbing the crack above the crux on pitch 4 (5.9+...
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Climbers on Pitch 3 & 4 of the Voie Rébuffat-Baque...
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Me starting the crux pitch!!! Awesome!!!
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Rap anchor at the top!
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Brian rapping to the platform!
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Brian following the crux!
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Marc Chrysanthou on the Rebuffat Route, Aiguille d...
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| Comments on Voie Rébuffat-Baquet |
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By John Fodor
From: Bolder, Co
Jun 22, 2012
| When you top out, you get to rap off huge eye bolts back to a platform for the tram. It's an awesome route. |
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