Type: Sport, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches
FA: FA: Royal Robbins, Layton Kor, Don Whillans, 1965; (While Robbins was teaching at John Harlin's climbing school in Leysin).
Page Views: 988 total · 7/month
Shared By: Seleucus on Jun 17, 2012 · Updates
Admins: Dan Flynn, Mark P.

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Description Suggest change

An interesting route, but difficult to find it in good condition. If it's too dry, you'll get a huge amount of dirt blown into your face from the cracks. If it's too wet, it'll stay wet for a while.

Pitch 1 (5.6): Easy grassy crack to a belay ledge.
Pitch 2 (5.10a): Some tenuous crack moves leads to thin face climbing.
Pitch 3 (5.7): Fairly straightforward climbing up a crack system to a belay ledge.
Pitch 4 (5.9): Go up an awkward dihedral/crack system. At the top traverse left under a roof. Pull around a corner to a ledge and the belay. Due to it's awkward nature, this will be the crux pitch for many climbers.
Pitch 5 (5.6): Go left from the belay and go up the easiest line to the top. The rock on this pitch is very loose and chossy.

Location Suggest change

From Lac de Mayen, follow the path to the bottom of the cliff. Use the topo to locate the base of the climb.

Protection Suggest change

Equipped with bolts. All anchors are equipped for rappel.

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