Vivesection 

Another must do on the wall... Start in overhang/dihedral with underclings and a crimp on the left. Some strenuous moves will lead to easier climbing after the roof, though still sustained. The gear is very thin, or very spaced. A set of RPs wouldn't hurt, though larger pieces pop up now and then.

Gear is spaced AND thin. Bring all your small stuff and don't expect relief until entirely after the roof. Then get what you can in and finish up on the vertical crack systems with some thiner face holds. Good climb that stays in the 5.10 range for a good 45 feet of climbing and another 40ft of easier ledges to the tippy top.

On my on-sight some FIBS dog came around the corner as I was 15ft up without gear yet and tangled his ass up in the rope.

My belayor: "WHO'S FUCKING DOG IS THIS?!?!!?"

FIB: "THAT'S MY FUCKING DOG!".

My belayor: "HE ALMOST PULLED MY BUDDY OFF THIS!"

FIB: "NO HE FUCKING DIDN'T!"

Witness': "Ummm....yea, he almost did."

FIB: Silence......

From now on I will be giving Jedi mind control lessons at DL every Saturday ;)

Ya, that was some crazy shit. One damn good reason to keep your dog on a leash at the crag, or just leave it home for that matter. Crag dogs are great and all, but shit......

Just when you think you've got all the risks under control ...

Nick on lead: "Dude! Give me some slack! I can't make this clip!."

Belayer: "Woof!"

If you cannot onsight 5.11a at the lake, check the gear before you go.
Might save you an ankle or more. Gear is really tricky at the start.

I think Pete Cleveland probably did the first lead as well. Anyone ?