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Justin Jeffs and I bolted this route in 2000 with the purpose of helping open the Bad Bananas wall for further development. The crux is turning a corner about two thirds of the way up. Some of the climb offers a unique sense of exposure while traversing a face that lies immediately above a roof. A fall on this portion of the climb could result in safe, but exciting swing into thin air.
This route extends up and left from a set of chains about 100 feet up Oscar the Grouch. Be sure to bring a friend who is willing to clean as you belay from the top. Bring a second rope for the rappel which is about 150 ft.
Bring about 12 draws, and an ATC for the rappel.
BETA PHOTO: I am belaying from a pair of rap bolts at the top ...
BETA PHOTO: Here I am on the way down. The entire rappel is i...
|By Christian "crisco" Burrell|
From: PG, Utah
Mar 17, 2010
I felt like the crux was in a small corner thing near the start of the pitch (2nd from the ground). It seemed to get easier as you go higher.