Q: When does a three-star route become a zero-star route?
A: When it falls down, of course.
Once Rifle's most sought-after 12d, Vitamin H is now a cobweb-collecting pile thanks to the bottom half of the route, which fell off in the spring of '98. Formerly, the route was one of the funnest, steepest jug hauls around, with great big blocky holds and a crux roof-to-headwall that was the site of many an air voyage.
When this huge plaque of rock cut, it took with it the starts of routes from Rendez-spew all the way over to Dope Party, yet Vitamin H was the most affected, losing just about all its holds through the bottom section.
The route still goes free at 13a (a hideous knee-bar sequence to get over the snot-yellow roof left behind by the collapse) and has been re-bolted, but is very nasty.
A better bet is to climb Vitamin D (12d): Start on Debaser and traverse left over the small roof band onto the top half of Vitamin H. It is plenty pumpy and plenty fun.
If you look through the talus at the base of the wall, you can still see the chalk and boot grease on the rock that cut. Interestingly enough, this huge plaque of rock seemed comparatively solid relative to other "dubious" features on other Rifle routes.
There's a lesson in here somewhere.
1-2 quickdraws. The route is fixed with chain draws.
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jul 26, 2005
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
I haven't done this route since it fell down, and I don't think that I want to. Climbing in that alcove now would feel like jogging through mine fields. It's too bad, because it was a great route.
Mar 21, 2007
Wow. I thought it looked a little different last time I was there...
|By Colin Lantz|
From: Nederland, CO
Jul 27, 2012
FA: Jim Hall summer 1992. It was no doubt the most poluar route in the Arsenal before a huge chunk of it fell down. Vitamin H is a reference to Paulaner Hefeweizen beer . There used to be a label from a bottle glued onto the rock right next to the anchor. Jim kept falling of at the last bolt when trying to redpoint the route. He was just too nervous about getting the FA done. On the burn when he finally sent, he downed a whole bottle of Hefeweizen and then promptly completed the redpoint.