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This climb has a fun roof which compensates for easy and loose-looking sections below.
Start on the clean slab left of the bushy slab (about 30' right of Roid Boys). Move up the easy slab, turn through a low roof through the middle with a hand traverse from right to left (1st crux). Cruise more low angle crack to the obvious hand crack pulling through the roof. Turn the roof (2nd crux) with great hand jams. From here, head to the anchors, that are just out of sight up another 20' and on the blunt arete to the left.
30' right of Roid Boys, pick out a hand crack splitting through a roof 60' up. Vitaman goes through this. (This climb is not shown on the beta photo)
To descend, rap/lower the route with one 60m rope.
1 set cams up to 3". 1 set nuts. Don't bother with small gear like TCUs or RPs. Long runners useful. A 2-bolt anchor w/ chains is at the top.
|By Jason Hundhausen|
From: Bozeman, MT
Dec 3, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Fun route. Great holds at the first route, even better jams at the second combined with easier slabs in between put this route on the easy side of 5.10 IMO. Chains are above and to the left of the second roof, out of sight. Perhaps placing them down a little lower would've helped the rope drag and provide a little more room on the lower/rap. Definitely need a 60m rope.
In D. Jackson's book, Rock Climbing New Mexico, topo shows route #3 and calls it Roid Boys; this is not correct, #3 is Vitaman; Roid Boys is not shown on the topo map.
|By Karl Kiser|
Apr 1, 2008
FA by Tom Wezwick and Karl Kiser. This route has its own anchor.