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 ADVANCED
The Wasteland
Routes Sorted
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Automatic Leg Spreader S 
Beast with Two Backs, The S 
Beast, The S 
Believe It S 
Capuccino S 
Community Service S 
Espresso S 
Guilt Parade S 
Gun Shy S 
Java Creek S 
Lady Luck S 
Never Believe S 
Popular Demand S 
Ruckus S 
Slacker S 
Slacker Direct S 
Thieves S 
Vision Thing S 

Vision Thing 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Kurt Smith, Mike Pont
Page Views: 1,815
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Sep 4, 2001

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Description 

This route was actually the scene of quite a bit of controversy the first season after it went up because a clipping pocket in the middle of the middle crux section had been "comfortized" with a drill. Threats were made to fill it in (and even rename it "Use Your Vision"), but nothing ever came of it.

This route is about as Euro as it gets, replete with incut huecos, interesting tufas, crimps, and of course pockets. If not for the hands-off ledge which separated the lower and upper bits, it would get three stars.

Vision Thing is one route left of Never Believe and about 10-12 feet right of an obvious huge hueco in the rock. Power endurance is the name of the game for the first half and a dyno or two will get you over the final roof and up to the anchors.

People have been bickering over the grade for years now -- Is it 13a? Is it 13b? It would be light-duty 8a in Europe, which puts it at about 13a/b.


Protection 

14 quickdraws.



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