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Ugly Duckling Boulder
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Battle of the Shadows 
Fryberger's Dyke 
Ugly Duckling 
Vise Grips 

Vise Grips 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Travis Rypkema
Page Views: 592
Submitted By: Chris Hirsch on Dec 18, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Vis Grips(aka - Bears see things pretty much the w...

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Description 

Few moves but still a powerful classic. For a lot of people the crux will be getting established on the wall. Start matched on the slopey breadloaf pinch and make just two moves to the top.

Location 

North side of the boulder, far right side. Starting hold is as high as you can reach on the large slanted dyke.

Protection 

One pad will get you by.


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By Travis Rypkema
Feb 2, 2011

I'm pretty sure I got the FA of this. I asked around and no one(Vern Phinney, Ronagon, et al.) seemed to know about it at the time, summer of 2003 I think. Greg did it that fall, so, whatever year that is. He'll remember.........
Oh, and I called it "Bears see things pretty much the way they are"
By Joshua Dreher
From: Bremerton, WA
Feb 3, 2011

I like "Vice Grips" better.
By Greg Parker
Administrator
Feb 3, 2011

I thought you did this first Travis. I almost changed it, because I'm a big shot administrator and I can do that, but I was going to check with you first. Are you sure it was 2003? I want to say it was earlier than that, like '99 or 2000. I was living in Salt Lake starting in Sept. of 2000. Maybe I did it on a trip back over the summer. I can't remember. I know I'm letting you down....
By Greg Parker
Administrator
Feb 3, 2011

Oh, and I thought it was Vis Grips, as in Tra-Vis Grips.
By Chris Hirsch
From: Rapid City, SD
Feb 3, 2011

Oops. Sorry, somebody misinformed me I guess. Either that or I thought I had seen one of those stupid red dots at the start. I can't remember.
By Travis Rypkema
Feb 4, 2011

Greg, your dates are more than likely correct. 2003 seems a little late.
Chris, there probably is a red dot there. Some dude went around putting red dots on problems all over the hills and claimed FA's of established problems.
By Brent Kertzman
From: Black Hills, SD
Feb 4, 2011

Just took a peek at Mike Olson's guide from 1997. He rates this route V6 and named it "Pressure". He states a sit starts likewise. I hope this helps shed more light on this enigma. Mike Olson is also responsible for the rock pocks Travis mentioned. This route as with many others have been claimed for the FA by a number of climbers. I bouldered a bit in this area in the mid 1980's but don't recall climbing this one.
By Joshua Dreher
From: Bremerton, WA
Feb 7, 2011

Does anyone know who the red dot guy was?
By Travis Rypkema
Feb 7, 2011

A sit start would be cool.
By Greg Parker
Administrator
Feb 8, 2011

I think Chuck Fryberger added the traverse into this problem. It follows the slopey rail from left to right. V9? V10?