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Viscious Circles 

Viscious Circles 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type: Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,114
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jul 7, 2002
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Brian lunges for the second hueco at the crux.

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Description 

This is the left most bolted climb on the lower face. The fourth bolt seems like it would only contribute rope drag, as the route is "done" after the second clip.

The crux is between the first and second clips, and invlves an awkward balancy move that is a dyno for short people. There are 4 huecos in and after the crux, and the friction on all of them sucks.


Protection 

4 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. Walk off or bring long (10' +) slings for a top rope.



Photos of Viscious Circles Slideshow Add Photo
7/7/2002
BETA PHOTO: 7/7/2002
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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 19, 2004

cool slopers, tricky high step. great TR setup.

By Bruce Morris
From: Belmont, CA
Jun 28, 2006

Actually, the 4th bolt is not gratuitous. When you clip it, you traverse left and finish the route by doing a left-hand mantle up on a tiny edge to a sloper. This adds another 5.10 move to the route.

By Blitzo
Sep 12, 2006

Didn't feel 10c.

By Alec S
From: Berkeley, CA
Jul 31, 2010

Cool route. The difficulty of the crux depends a lot on how tall you are. I can see someone tall(er than me) having no problem with hitting the second bolt. I had a bit more trouble.

By steple
Jan 28, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

I agree with Bruce - you miss out if you don't clip the fourth bolt and skip the mantle.