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Aaron Parlier on "Horizon Line" GHSP
Description Virginia is for lovers; and as climbers we are all lovers of quality stone to pull on. Whether it is trad, mixed, sport, or bouldering that you are looking for, the Old Dominion state has a whole lotta’ stone just lookin’ for love… Spring is here; Although VA’s Appalachian crags and boulder fields are still getting periodical snow showers, there are plenty of warm weather locations where a fine line is easy to find. Scroll through the 2,500+ listed VA routes and problems and chalk up on some of the best rock in the state. Warm weather is just around the corner! Check out Great Falls, Old Rag, and Elizabeth Furnace for lots of fun and exciting Trad and TR routes. These fine areas, along with most of the other trad and TR areas in VA are generally located in gorgeous parks and unique settings. Keep watch for many other areas that are being established across the Old Dominion. Also check out Iron Gate for some great sport routes and Roanoke River Gorge for fun sport, mixed, and trad lines. There are multitudes of quality bouldering opportunities across Virginia. There are several high quality boulder fields, great local areas, and small obscure spots scattered throughout the state. Mcafees Knob has tons of great bouldering and The Cascades is an up-and-coming favorite. For the absolute best bouldering experience in VA be sure to visit Grayson Highlands State Park. Also, if you are traveling to VA and want to go bouldering but dont want to lug a crashpad and all of your junk with you, GHSP now has a rental pad, chalk, chalkbag, and brush for rent!
Guidebook -The Horst guide, "Rock Climbing Virginia, West Virginia, and Maryland" is a great reference for popular VA destinations like Old Rag and Great Falls. -Be sure to pick up the PATC Great Falls book for more routes and info on the area. Also available for sale at the visitor's center. www.potomacmountainclub.org/content/view/83/115/ -Also, be on the lookout for the up and coming full color bouldering guidebook for Grayson Highlands State Park.
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Virginia:
Browse More Classics in Virginia
Featured Route For Virginia
Lost Arrow 5.10 VA : Great Falls : Aid Box
For me this is one of the best climbs at Great Falls. Climb the obvious pin scarred crack using the small left facing dihedral on your right. Crux is grasping the holds on the left facing dihedral and moving beyond them. It is supposedly 5.11 if you go straight up the crack without the dihedral. Add a few letter grades for a mid-summer, humid-as-hell ascent :)... [more] Browse More Classics in VA
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By JonathanGerst From: Morocco, Africa Dec 2, 2009
| Info request for Tunstall's Tooth in Big Island, VA. Route information? Sport, trad, mixed, or TR? Topo maps? Contact info for official or unofficial crag caretaker? |
By S.Mccabe From: boulder, co Dec 17, 2009
| I will be passing through VA this weekend. Is there any climbing near or within an hour of Lynchburg? |
By TravisMelin From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI Dec 17, 2009
| I believe there is, but it looks like its supposed to be a snow storm from friday night into saturday so your outdoor chances are slim.... Good thing there is a great gym in lynchburg! |
By VirginiaS From: boulder,co Feb 6, 2010
| I've just moved to Northern Virginia for a few months and was hoping to get some information about climbing in the area, maybe even some ice this winter? I've just moved from Boulder and am hoping to find some people to climb with and until the snow melts, a good gym in the area around Shenandoah National park. Any information would be seriously appreciated. Thanks! |
By Aaron James Parlier Administrator From: Boone, NC / Grayson, VA Mar 13, 2010
| Hi VirginiaS. If you're close enough to Sportrock in Alexandria you have to go there. Its fantastic |
By Aaron James Parlier Administrator From: Boone, NC / Grayson, VA Oct 14, 2010
| bigdan: Sorry I’m so late about getting back to you about GHSP. The dry time at Grayson is usually about a day. The park tends to have its own weather pattern, but Weatherchannel.com is usually right about the conditions out there. The Listening rock trail dries in approximately one day, the Boneyard area can be stubborn to dry and takes around a day-two days, the highlands area can dry in much less than a day if its breezy... contact station area takes around a day as well. -Aaron Parlier |
By Andrew Cassidy Feb 14, 2011
| Does anyone have any beta on Apple Orchard Falls. I saw bolts there before I was a climber when I was backpacking a couple of years ago?!? |
By Aaron James Parlier Administrator From: Boone, NC / Grayson, VA Mar 17, 2011
| Andrew Cassidy: I tried looking the place up and I could only find hiking and waterfall information. I for one have never heard of it, but from the photos online Im sure someone has established lines there. Looks like a cool spot... I would take to the local gear shop or the closest gym for information. Good luck, and if you do find out info on the place be sure to post it on here! |
By Steve C From: Missoula, MT Sep 9, 2011
| Andrew: I also saw two bolted lines on a north-facing cliff on the trail between the parkway and Apple Orchard Falls. Looked like quality routes; 5.10-5.12 range. Always meant to get back there and try them before I moved away from VA. I say go get on 'em and let us know how they are! |
By Matt L Feb 28, 2012
| Be on the lookout for an awesome gym opening in the Christiansburg/Blacksburg area! Crimper's Climbing Gym is located at 100 Central Ave, Christiansburg Va, 24073. The bouldering wall stretches 70 feet horizontally and reaches 16 feet above the padding. There are seven top rope stations around the tower ranging from overhanging to slab climbing. the lead cave starts seven feet below the floor level, giving 30 feet of lead climbing. This gym is sweet, everyone in the area should come check it out once they open in early April. You can get more info at www.crimpersclimbing.com or email at info@crimpersclimbing.com Get excited! |
By Mike Mu. Mar 21, 2012
| So I have been tossing around the idea for a few years of doing a comprehensive Rock & Ice climbing guidebook for VA. VA doesn't have a great guidebook for all the stuff that exists there. The Watson guide is subpar and the Horst book while nice skipped a lot of areas. I was thinking of focusing only on roped climbing-including all of the excellent bouldering would take a lifetime to finish. Just wanted to probe the interest of fellow MP'ers that climb in VA-is this something you would be interested in using? What format would you want to see--color photos with route lines drawn in, topos, etc? Obviously SNP/BRP and the National Forests will be the meat of the guide, but are there other areas you would want to see? |
By Aaron James Parlier Administrator From: Boone, NC / Grayson, VA Mar 21, 2012
| Mike you should go for it! Shoot me a message sometime before you get underway. Sometime before you get too involved in the formal structure of the guide. There is an area I'd like to talk to you about that would be important to include for sure. The guide sounds like a great idea! |
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