Virgin Wool ascends the south flank of the tower to the bedding seam, then traverses to a corner system that is followed to the top. To truly summit you have to traverse across the summit ridge and then back for the rappels.
P1 = Climb the slab using friction and climber-made moki steps. These steps are the result of years of banging pins into drilled holes and then extracting them on that ascent... not a good idea for the rock. It has now been bolted so that this is no longer needed. It is very soft. At the bulge there are a couple of sketchy C1 moves that might also go a 5.11. A fall would not be far, but would leave a nasty mark as you would slab-out. Continue on to the ledge. This is a 55 meter pitch
P2 = traverse in a hand size crack (C1) around to the east face of the tower and a nice ledge.... a 20 meter pitch.
P3 = the Ewetopian Crack. Follow a beautiful thin crack up the face just left of the corner. I found good placements the whole way, but I often top-stepped to get them. This is one of the finest aid pitches in Arches. Its C2 and about 45 meters in length.
P4 = Follow a finger and hand size crack to the bulge, then move through the bulge on a pin and some thin wires. This is strenuous and the rock deteriorates a bit. A fall would be ugly because of the slab. If you have a wide, piece, it will help you transition into a few free moves. At the top use a pin, and edge, and maybe some manky gear, to pull onto the summit ridge. THis pitch is 20 meters long and C2+/5.10-.
P5 = walk across the ridge to the summit knob. You can feed a cordolette through the holes to protect you on the 5.4 move onto the summit. Reverse it to the rappel anchors. This pitch is 30 meters.
Rap the route on 1/2 bolts and brown chain placed by the Arches Task Force in March of 2007. Please try not to add webbing to the route as it is visible from the highway.
Quick draws, slings for bolts. Three sets of friends up to 3.5, then 1 each of 4 and 5. A few micro pieces are handy. The Ewtopian Crack gobbles up lots of small to mid size offsets... bring lots.
A cordolette is needed at the top for slinging the huecos.
From: Joshua Tree, California
Apr 25, 2007
I am glad to hear that the first pitch has been "fixed" up.....we ( Dave Evans, Cyndie Bransford , Margy Floyd and I ) did this climb in March of 1991, and I lead the first pitch , and it was soft and funky;....I remember placing a few pins and such;... Dave followed and did NOT bother with a hammer, as he could remove ALL the pins easily with his hands. This climb is really all about pitch 3, which (rats!) Dave got;...it's a wonderful long pitch of fairly good rock and good placements;...fast, fun, and fairly easy. The rest of the climb aint' no big thing. The summit, as you can image, is fantastic. What a great formation!
|By Ben Kiessel|
Dec 28, 2007
Matt and I climbed this on dec. 23rd and found a metolius nut tool at the base. I will mail it if you claim it.
|By Bill Bones|
Oct 21, 2009
4 pitches is all it is. 2 long pitches and 2 short. make sure to bring lots of small offset nuts and yellow and blue TCUS and/or green Aliens. 3 to 4 for the utopian pitch upper part. Rad route.
|By A. Roberts|
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 22, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Besides the offsets for the first half of the third pitch, 3 of each metolius #0-#2 are nice for the upper half of pitch 3. We also appreciated a blue tri-cam for a hole next to the last bolt on pitch 1. And a #5 camalot between the roof and the anchors on pitch 4. These pieces aren't mandatory but made things easier. Great climb, pitch 3 was by far my "pitch of the year". I wonder what "don't stand on the piton guy" would have thought about my shoulder stand to start pitch 3?
|By Matt Glue|
From: Boulder, CO
May 29, 2014
Did this on Monday. P3 is on par with the best of Zenyatta Entrada! Yep, a triple set of offset micronuts for the first half of P3. More if you don't backclean, or just extras around the green/purple Peenut size. The occasional drilled angle and larger cam is very appreciated. Then doubles/triples in small TCUs/C3s for the second half.
Someone with small fingers could think about freeing the second half of P3. Maybe that's why all those drilled pitons are up there? I was wondering how well a C3 in entrada could take a lead fall...
I would also say that only two sets of Camalots/Friends are necessary.
CAUTION: Loose rock at the P4 belay! 1) The fridge-sized irregularly-shaped piece of rock which contains the obvious hand holds to start the pitch rocks back and forth when pulled on. I don't think it would actually go, but it would be absolute disaster if it did. 2) The watermelon-sized piece of rock that is the obvious stepping stone to go from there is ready and rarin' to go, all the way down P3. Be super-careful.